Nels’ Notes: Nomadic Wandering Shenanigans March 15-20, 2009

Countries: Mexico

Miles Driven: 515 miles

Song of the Week: “Heartless”-Kanye West

Book of the Week:  “Free-Wheelin’ ”-Richard Lovett

Free-Wheelin’: A Solo Journey Across America

The crew and our week-on-the-road-warriors (Shoppman’s sister, Katie and her husband, Nate) awoke Sunday morning in our ocean-side rustic cabana in Nexpa.  Nate did some masterful mechanic tricks on the Sequoia over the weekend, so we were set to head to Barra de Navidad.  Barra de Navidad is a small, country beach town on the Pacific that has many small craft shops, restaurants, bars and aDSC_0027 neat little pier.  From here we made the trek on Monday to the spring break hot-spot of Puerto Vallarta.  We were graciously accommodated by the Oasis Hostel, and enjoyed everything they had to offer.  The hostel was spotless, had great rooms with cable tv and a dvd player, a lounge room with computers and television, an awesome roof top area, great receptionists, laundry service, and its location just outside the main downtown area was perfect.  Tuesday was our  chill day in Puerto Vallarta, and Wednesday was departure and arrival day.  The departure flight took Katie and Nate back to Denver.  The week we had with them was a blast, and it was great to have them on the road with us.  It’d be hard to find two nicer of people.  All of us are looking forward to seeing them soon.  The arrival flight brought new crew member, Celeste Tenuta, into town.  Her photography experience and creativity will be a great addition to our cast of characters.DSC_0047

Thursday took us from Puerto Vallarta to the incredible, small town of Tequila.  The Hotel Plaza Jardin was able to accommodate us, and we were thrilled to stay right in the town plaza.  Friday was by far the highlight of the week.  We started the morning off with a VIP tour of the Jose Cuervo factory.  It was nothing less than incredible.  We were lucky enough to see the entire process from the harvest in the fields, to the baking of the agave plant, to the press, fermentation, and then to the distillery.  The finale of our tour brought us down into a cave that holds wooden barrels of tequila that were rated the 2nd best liquor  in the entire world.  We were able to dip a pouring device into one of the wooden barrels and pour a glass.  Then our guide, who was so professional and thorough that we really didn’t even have to ask questions, instructed us on how to taste test the elite tequila.  The tour is a must if you are visiting Tequila, Mexico.  After an excellent meal we passed the night observing a town celebration in the   plaza.  A few speeches started things out, followed by a parade of little kids dressed up in animal costumes, and ended with a musical performance on the main stage.  Men, women and children were having more than a great time.  If smiles and laughs were scary, it’d be the only way that this town would make me afraid.  I’d take everyone from my parents, grandmothers, brothers, and friends to this town.  DSC_0240

We all must remember to not judge a book by it’s cover.  What happens in one town doesn’t directly correlate to another.  The happenings we’ve read about Juarez aren’t even close to the cities we’ve been in Mexico.  The only things we’ve come upon are amazing sights, excellent food, and the gracious, nice and caring people of Mexico.  Your opinions, I’m certain, of the safety of Mexico would surely change if you would have been able to spend the wonderful day with us in Tequila.

Special Thanks:

Oasis Hostel

Hotel Plaza Jardin

Jose Cuervo

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Agave Plant which produces Tequila

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Head Jimador, Ismal, get the agave ready for the factory

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TWBR Crew bearing arms accompanied by guide, Mark, and jimador, Ismal

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Attentive listening at it’s best in the Jose Cuervo Cave

Photos of the Mid-Week: Boo-man

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Bouey, filming the Saturday market on a long drive in Guatemala.

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Bouey, driving the Tundra, in the zone.

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Boo-man, with his friends, the habanero peppers.

Cruising The Open Roads

Mexico is a big country, the 14th largest country in the world by land area to be exact, and because Mexico is also a fairly developed country, that means we have a lot of pavement to put behind us before we cross the border back into the States. It is no real surprise that the roads in the major tourists areas such as the states of Quintana Roo (Tulum, Cancun), Yucatan (Merida) and Jalisco (Puerto Vallarta) are in really good condition, but you may be surprised to find that the roads in the rest of the country so far have also been in pretty descent shape. True, we have stuck to some pretty major transit corridors, but the good surface conditions are a relief because although we have only made it through about two thirds of our Mexican route, we have already tallied up over 2,200 miles on the Toyotas.

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Highway to the danger zone?

You might also be surprised to learn that contrary to what the mainstream international media has been reporting, we have had an amazingly safe and secure time here in Mexico. We have received a nonstop stream of e-mails from concerned friends and relatives related to the security situation in Mexico, We have also been warned by numerous people “in the know” about cops on the take shaking motorists down for their pesos. The bottom line is that the danger in Mexico everyone is reading about in the news is fairly localized to the border areas and as far as the corruption goes, we have been here for over two weeks, driven more than 3,500 kilometers and have not had a single problem with the police or the military even when a citation may have actually been justified. Everyone we have encountered in Mexico has been extremely friendly and helpful and the only people in any real danger here are drug smugglers, arms dealers and anyone else stupid enough to hang around in areas where these individuals operate or people who associate themselves with criminals.

We have written about travel warnings and alerts coming out of the US State Department before but from what we have seen and experienced, unless you are planning on vacationing in Cuidad Juarez, the only real danger spring breakers or anyone else in Mexico for that matter have to worry about are sunstroke, drowning in a rip current, alcohol poisoning or falling off a high rise balcony while intoxicated… it actually happens more than you can imagine. After a quick glimpse at some of the stories coming out of Mexico that are making international headlines, you might be inclined to think that it is total anarchy here. The US military actually believes that Mexico is on the verge of becoming a failed state. But while sitting back the other day watching the sunset from a sleepy beach side town that most gringos have never heard of, a town where most of the locals never even really see a gringo, the only real thing that seems to be failing is my ability to speak Spanish clearly and the thought of all the reported Mexican violence does not even cross my mind.

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Craig’s only real concern is what beats are coming out of the I-Pod

In fact, the only annoying experiences we have really had to contend with in Mexico to date are the speed bumps, and the road tolls. As far as the speed bumps are concerned, there are enough here in Mexico that you could probably use the material from them to pave a new road across the entire country and when it comes to tolls, it is like déjà vu from China all over again as we have probably spent somewhere in the neighborhood of 2,000 pesos per vehicle (about $130) on them. We actually calculated that one stretch of highway outside of Veracruz cost approximately $1US per minute to drive on but luckily we were only on that section of road for a few minutes. On the bright side, at just under $0.50 per liter, gasoline in Mexico is the cheapest we have encountered on the entire expedition.

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In some towns, you might cross six speed bumps in the span of 100 meters

To revisit the security situation one last time, we are not the only ones enjoying ourselves here in Mexico. We have met countless people who have driven down from both the States and Canada who are having similar experiences. Just this morning, I spoke with a guy who made the trip down to Mexico from Canada. He has been road tripping and living around Mexico for the past five years and his only problem… wishing he had decided to do it earlier life.

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Ruins TWBR style.

Throughout Mexico, Guatemala and Belize there are several dozen ruins that are available for tourists to visit, among them the two most recognizably famous–Tikal in Guatemala and Chichen Itza in the Yucutan of Mexico.  But instead of sifting through the crowds to see what we have all seen in pictures, TWBR decided to bypass those while opting for the ruin less traveled…and besides, we did get to see a pretty sweet termite mound in Mexico which easily rivaled  the architectural gravity of Chichen Itza, so there’s always that.  Termite mound aside, we all felt we made the right choice in checking out the lesser known structural remains of the Mayan hey-day so we could experience them all to ourselves without other gringos crowding the backgrounds of our photos.  So instead of visiting the grandeur of Tikal, the main tourist attraction in all of Guatemala, we picked a site nearby known as Yaxha.  With our only real company being the spirits of sacrificed Mayans and Howler monkeys, we got to truly revel in in all of Yaxha’s glory. 

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Yaxha, nearly all to ourselves

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Would Melissa and Steel have been allowed to do this atop of Tikal? No.

Caracol, in Belize was our favorite, though.  We decided on Caracol as the former residents are known to have defeated Tikal sometime between 550AD and 700AD due to their military might.  It is permitted to bring your own transportation to Caracol, but only with armed military escorts that leave from a certain checkpoint promptly at 9am each day, the reason being is that Guatemalan bandits have been known to cross the border simply to rob the tourists by hiding along the rough route to the ruins.  Recent years have also seen few problems with looters as well since the overgrown city which once housed 150,000 people is still very much an excavation in progress.  Caracol is already a spectacular sight and is definitely destined to once again defeat Tikal, but this time in tourism, once the hardworking Archeology students and professors from the world over uncover what has been lost in its entirety–we’re thinking they should be well on their way to the finish line in about 60 or 70 years.  

 

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Making the ascent at the primary ceremonial structure of Caracol.

 

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Belizeans apprenticing for students from University of Central Florida. 

At this rate, the entire structure may be fully uncovered within 5-7 years.

 

Photo of the Week: Casa Cenote

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During our stay in Tulum, our first destination in Mexico, we were fortunate enough to go scuba diving in two of the famed cenotes with Maya Diving.  Here, in Casa Cenote, Bouey is doing some fine underwater filming.  Nice work, Steve.

Better than Boutique

659112451_fdccba39a9While approaching home and traveling through Central America, we have started to encounter many of our accommodations and activities being owned by expats or foreign owners, many times from the United States. The enthusiasm these people have gained for the local culture or people has somehow inspired them to decide they want to be part of the local community with their very own property. Some might argue that there is something wrong with an outsider starting a business in these communities, saying that they are raising real estate prices for the locals, but this could not be farther from the truth.

Actually, these establishments are exactly what many of these places need to preserve the local architecture, and sometimes even the community itself.  A couple of months ago, we stayed at El Casa Carretero. After our stay I asked the Colombian born owner, Carlos Restrepo give me a background of himself, his property and why he decided to take on the huge task of renovating an old, run-down shell of a building in Cartagena, Colombia and transform it into a first class property simply for others to enjoy. Carlos responded, “My passion is travel and technology. I started Casa El Carretero three years ago with my wife DSC_0056Monica because we wanted our guests to feel like they were in their own house but enjoying all the benefits of a luxury hotel. Our guests enjoy the fact that they can see children playing in the streets and people discussing the news of the day in the neighborhood plaza.” Carlos is a sales engineer for Google in the Bay Area who has worked in the technology industry for most of his career and his wife Monica is a mechanical engineer for Loral Space systems.  After finding out that both of them are engineers, it was easy to see that their work trickled into their hotel.  Their property is a true extension of how you can not only restore these old beautiful buildings, you can take them far beyond their original architectural excellence.

DSC_0063 The inside of the casa is finished with fine detail, a small wading pool on the roof with a view of the fortress, and a layout that truly makes one wake up with a smile while staying here.  While the rooms have air conditioning, the bathrooms have open air windows, again with a view of the old city,  complete with a giant fixture on the shower giving a feeling like taking a shower outside in the rain. After waking up and enjoying a little sun on the rooftop in the morning, you find yourself in the kitchen with Alisa and Luis there to serve a delicious breakfast and help to figure out what you might do in Cartagena for the day. The two have both been Cartagena locals for quite some time and are a wealth of information about the town. Their warmth and genuine interest in helping us out certainly made each morning a treat.  After getting fueled up with fresh fruit or traditional Colombian breakfast, your first steps are out to the beautiful neighborhood of El Getsemaní.
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El Getsemaní is one of the first neighborhoods in the city, where the independence process began. A neighborhood of carpenters and handymen, it represents the working class of the colonial times. Much of its authenticity is still preserved in the neighborhood today. And as you can read in Melissa’s blog, it is a perfect extension of what makes Cartagena special. DSC_0150 Due to the usual shipping delays, we were stuck in Cartagena for an extra handful of days when Casa Veranera came to our rescue. This property has equal merit as a model of restoration excellence and for those who want to be closer to the center, it is right in the heart of the old town of Cartagena. Owner Diana Chen is a friend of Carlos, who also lives in California and fell in love with Cartagena years ago after traveling in the area, which led her to invest some money in her own property.  Diana told me, “I fell in love with the city, its heat, and the irresistibly charming colonial homes. I visioned to interlace the modern touches with its colonial architectures in a setting that captures the spirit of the fashionable Cartagena people.” She also mentioned the important fact that this enchanting city is only a 2.5 hour flight from Miami, which makes its charm easily accessible to anyone in the states even for just a long weekend. I imagine Diana takes regular “business trips” to check in on her beautiful property, as I would do the same.

Do you see the trend here?  These people, just like Travis Knight who has an amazing house in San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua, have a tie to the place.  Their interest in the local culture, scenery or activities gives them the zest to create a place that not only impresses guests, but gives them a certain feeling attached with their stay. DSC_0150 Travis’ place is no less of an example of this. With an incredible view of the sea, it sets the stage for an excellent home base while fishing off the coast of Nicaragua.  This house lets you get an incredible view of where you spend your day, and if you are lucky enough to catch a fish here, his staff will cook it to your liking so that you can eat it while watching the sunset over the Pacific.  Inside the house each room has its own view and the whole house is decked out with details like model fishing boats and a kitchen that is stocked with all the equipment you need to have a proper holiday feast.

Of course these places have price tags a bit higher than your local hostel, but you would be surprised to find that the cost of this experience is a far greater value than spending your money on a mid-range hotel in any major tourist destination.  After a stay at any of these places, you would have to be crazy to regret a single dollar spent as the experience is one you will never forget.  I write this article two months after staying in Cartagena and still miss our days there.

With a big group, Travis’ house is perfect for a dinner with a view

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Villa Noche

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For more info about these places you can contact them directly:

Casa El Carretero

Casa Veranera

Villa Noche

Nels’ Notes: Nomadic Wandering Shenanigans March 08-14, 2009

Countries: Mexico

Miles Driven:  1,431 Miles

Song of the Week:  “Wrong About Me”-Brett Dennen

Book of the Week:  “The Forgotten 500”-Gregory A. Freeman

Quote of the Week:  “THIS, is redefining the word LIVING.” –Steven Shoppman at 1:30 a.m., Wednesday night, in the beach town, Playa Escondida, observing the beauty of our surroundings.

DSC_0021 There is no normalcy on the road.  We’re always coming and then going, saying “hello” one day, and “goodbye” the next.  It is how it has to be.  On Sunday we awoke early in Merida with a long day of driving ahead of us, and had to say goodbye to the stellar Hungarian, Zsofi, who was with us for a five-week stint.  I can speak for the entire crew in saying, “She will be missed.”  Fourteen hours in the trucks got us to Veracruz, and sure enough, just as I was about to park the Tundra I was pulled over.  Yes, we know one of the brake lights is out, but his other claims were false, resulting in Shoppman giving the transit officer a lesson in his own regulations, and getting us out of the ticket.  Monday we were able to explore the largest port city in Mexico and check out the massive ships carrying an unreal amount of containers, which from previous experiences, made Bouey shutter.  A group of us later that night had the opportunity to see an amazing flag presentation that packed the entire town plaza, had two marching bands, government officials on the stage, a little kid looking like GI Joe,  two men singing their city’s song, and a school group of girl’s that marched the flag from the pole to it’s resting place for the night.  It sure was a spectacle.

Tuesday was another long day on the road as we made our way from Veracruz to Acapulco.  Eleven DSC_0068 and a half hours later we reached our destination and met up with two more stellar humans, Shoppman’s sister, Katie, and her husband, Nate, who will be taking the trip up to Puerto Vallarta with us.  Wednesday was a highlight of the week as we saw the famous cliff divers of La Quebrada jump from death-defying heights up to 140 feet.  Their performance and guts were beyond impressive.  We headed out and happened upon a beach town half-way between Acapulco and Zihuatanejo called Playa  Escondida.  It’s not even on the map, which makes it even better.  We had our own beach to swim, had a great dinner of stuffed peppers, pork and steak, made a fire, listened to some chill tunes, and watched the waves crash and the moon shine.

Thursday we awoke on the beach, which tends to start a day off right, especially when you look into the ocean and see a whale jump followed by a number of dolphins.  We also had the pleasure of seeing our own little fish, crew members Craig and Steel, battle the massive waves.  From beach to another beach we made our way to Zihuatanejo where we enjoyed a swim in the Pacific and a sunset off in the cloudy distance.  Yet another beach would be the final destination of the week as we made it to undisturbed and unknown, Mexpan, early Friday afternoon.  A rustic cabana on the ocean would be our new home for the next few nights.  One can’t complain.  The ocean calls.  Peace.

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TWBR Family Style Dinner with Katie and Nate

Photo of the Mid-Week: Las Ruinas

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Lately, there have been too many good photos to only choose one for the week.  This is the largest structure amongst the Mayan Ruins of Caracol.  From this viewpoint you can’t even see the final climb as there are three more pyramids on top of this one.  The Mayans must have been in very good shape cause we were all huffing and puffing at the top of the steps.  But at the top the view is priceless.

New Photos – Algarrobo

After the Navimag Ferry dropped us in Puerto Montt, we spent a few days making our way up the coast to Algarrobo, Chile. Algarrobo is home to San Alfonso del Mar which boasts the largest swimming pool (outdoor) in the world. It is official and has been confirmed by the Guinnes Book of World Records. San Alfonso consists of a cluster of apartment towers on manicured grounds surrounding the kilometer long pool and has a fine selection of restaurants (insluding some great Sushi), fitness activities and clubs catering to childreren, teens and adults. It is a great place to spend a day or five and the town of Algarrobo itself is quite charming and picturesque. It was still the off season when we arrived in Algarrobo, so we had much of the resort to ourselves, but it did start to fill up over the weekend with local Chileans escaping the nearby capital city of Santiago for a few days. Not only were we fortunate enough to play in the largest swimming pool in the world, but four of the TWBR crew members who were not PADI scuba divers also we lucky enough to get certified in the largest swimming pool in the world thanks to Narval Buceo. If memory serves me correctly, it was the first time anyone had been scuba certified in the pool, but if the number of people watching the closed water portion of the class was any indication, San Alfonso will definitely be hosting a lot more scuba certification classes in their pool in the future. It certanly makes sense.

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5 Star Time, Buckle Up, TWBR’s Here

Disheveled, wary, and not having the opportunity to shower in three days we graced the gate outside the five-stDSC_0006ar, Royal Decameron All-Inclusive Resort, in Salinitas, El Salvador.  A few hours previous, we were camping on a beach and having to go to the bathroom in the woods, and at that point I wasn’t  surprised that the gate guards had reservations on letting us enter.  Bouey got all of it straightened out, we parked the trucks, also covered in mud, and entered the lobby.  The looks on the people’s faces were priceless and had us cracking up.  The kind receptionist told us we “looked tired and should take a nap”, which most likely translated to, “get some food, maybe a shower, a little shave, and some rest.”  We did just that.

Decameron All-Inclusive Resort was exactly the little break we were looking for.  The weather was perfect, the beaches white sand, the ocean called us to swim, all-inclusive fortunately means the food and drinks are free, and the service anDSC_0011d people were wonderful.

The variety of activities for the guests is by far a highlight of the resort.  Swimming options include the Pacific Ocean, four large fresh water pools, or the unique salt water pool that sits just outside the shore of the ocean that is filled with the tide each day.  Guests are also able to take a break from the sun by having fun with the professional activities staff, get a lift or run in at the gym, or enjoy the variety of spa treatments at the Spa Temazcalli facilities (including beach-side massage and Mayan sweat lodge).  Other fun activities range from windsurfing, to ancient ruins, to beach volleyball.  The certified scuba divers of our crew took advantage of a scuba trip, and explored a volcanic crater in Lake Llopango.

The nightlife also has a lot to offer.  Restaurants that specialize in Thai, Mediterranean, Steak and Italian food scatter the property, and are well complimented with four distinct bars.  We were lucky enough to listen tDSC_0013o a local cover band at one of them the first night.  I was the youngest in the bar, by far, at the age of 25, but had a hard time keeping up with the mostly middle-aged to late-aged folks tearing up the dance floor.  Happiness was showcased by the huge  smiles on all our faces.

Decameron All-Inclusive Resort was a great diversion from the daily grind of life on the road.  It’s blend of activities, relaxation, beauty, culture and service were perfect, and just what all of us, and I’m sure the other guests, needed.