Monterrey was a great way to spend our last days in Mexico. Between the Chipinque Hotel looking over the city and my friend Chuy’s hospitality at his adventure center, IBO, we could not have had a better time. The Monterroco Hostel was also a splendid place to stay for a few days. Overall, things really went right while we spent out last days in Mexico before returning to the USA. Craig and I were lucky enough to get some hammocks custom made for us by a young man outside of town, and the nightlife here is something that can keep anyone who likes rock and roll entertained for weeks on end.
Monterrey is a true Mexican city that allows you to get immersed in the local culture and not be constantly surrounded by tourists and tequila shots. It makes for an excellent place for a trip because you can be completely immersed in amazing natural beauty and then make it into the city for some culture by night fall. The best part is that the city sits just a few hours south of the USA border, so go have a visit to our friendly neighbors down south.
Quote of the Week: First day, for newcomers Kristen and Meagan, using the CB’s in the trucks:
Steven Shoppman: “Sequoia to Tundra, are you there?â€
Kristen Magnuson: “Yes, we exist.â€
Perseverance is defined as a steady persistence in a course of action, a purpose, a state, especially in spite of difficulties, obstacles, or discouragement, and that is exactly what we had to do to make the voyage on the Dalton Highway from Fairbanks to Prudhoe Bay, Alaska. To reach the farthest north point on the Pan-American highway we had to take the 1,000 mile roundtrip, mostly gravel road, that really put our driving skills and minds to the test. It is a desolate highway that doesn’t see many tourists, usually just semi-trucks making their trek north. We endured and made it to Dead Horse, and to tell the truth, it felt beyond bizarre and kind of empty. We had driven for the better part of a day, on a terrible road, coupled with the never-setting sun, and in the cold and came to an oil field in the middle of the tundra. Usually such a voyage ends up somewhere beautiful or breathtaking, and this was neither, but as we’ve all learned from this expedition, one has to take the good with the bad, and that its all apart of the adventure. We made it, however, and that is what makes all the difference. This feat gave us the distinction as the the first overland expedition to reach the farthest north and south points you can drive on the continents the expedition has been on, and will aide us in our attempts to reach our long-term goals.
The cheapest hotel room, in this northern city, was $190 a night, so we were forced to camp on the open tundra in freezing temperatures, and had to awake early to catch a bus tour for the last 6 miles of the road that is owned by BP. We contacted everyone we could think of, but it was to no avail, for they would not let us drive the BP owned road for the obnoxious reason of a security concern. We pleaded our case, but no one would listen, and were forced to each pay $40 to take a bus tour the last six miles. I find it very Interesting, however, that on the last security gate before the road turns private there is an advertisement for the bus tour. Do you think BP may have a deal with the tour company to suck even more money out of the people who visit here? I certainly do.
We made it to the Arctic Ocean, took some video and some photographs, and even watched crazy Craig walk into the calf-high water that was on top of the ice.   We finished the tour, took our trucks to the very last inch of public road to hear on our CB a guard in the Security Gate yell , “Security Gate 1, Security Gate 1.†That was the last straw, we’d accomplished our goal, had enough, turned around and put Dead Horse in our rearview mirror.
We took off south to go another round with road, and made our way to a campsite right on the Arctic Circle. From there we were graciously accommodated by Pike’s Waterfront Lodge in Fairbanks. A hot shower, great meal, and a chance to relax was exactly what we needed after our latest adventure. Across the street from the hotel is the Fairbanks Airport, which helped bring us two new World By Road crew members, Kristen Magnuson and Meagan Hodge. They hold the same spirit of adventure, and know they’ll be a great addition to our crew.
From there we headed south from Fairbanks to the historic community/Athabascan Native village of Nenana, where we set up camp on the Nenana River. We then were able to go to the Old Minto village located in Interior Alaska, on the banks of the Tanana River, a tributary of the Yukon River, about 50 miles south of Fairbanks for a potlatch. The village has no road access, so we took a 30 mile boat trip down to their camp. The Athabascan camp was filled with great energy, sense of community and hospitality. Food preparation of moose and fish were happening in various areas, and the joy, showcased by wide smiles,of the children playing together was amazing. We were very lucky to have had the opportunity to meet a lot of great people there, and look forward to visiting them again.
We took the boat back to our campsite and once again, watched the sun not set, but rather “slide†across the sky. Our heads found our pillows, and got us ready for our short drive to Healy for Alaskan wilderness adventures with hunter/trapper/guide Coke Wallace.
After being interviewed for TV, radio, and newspapers in many different places around the world, the bulk of the content about the expedition has been pretty straight forward. Often the questions we are asked are similar, the topics are similar, and the photos or video is somewhat traditional. It makes sense, the story of the expedition is interesting and since most people have not heard of us before, the simple story will do.
After a great interview with Mary Beth Smetzer of the News Miner in Fairbanks, the photographer Eric Engman took us on a little tour of the town that ended up at the University on the hill overlooking the city. At the top of this hill was our setting for the series of photos for the article to be. It started out with more serious, we are cool world travelers type shots. We thought for sure we were going to look cool, calm and collected in the paper.
Soon after Eric had taken the traditional photos, he said a handful of words that brought a smile to my face, “Hey I have an idea for a funny photo, I just want to try it out.†He suggested that we do the classic Toyota jump that they used to do for all of their ad campaigns in the past. We all knew for sure that if we were to submit to his requests, we were in for it. We all do like jumping in the air though, right? All while I was jumping one most recent episodes of 30 Rock popped into my head…
So while we were not wearing silly masks or pretending we were birthing chickens, I still was jumping up showing my fat belly doing a full method, and it got us on the cover of our section. So the next time we are doing photos for the paper, be prepared because the first 9 words out of my mouth will be, “Can we do a funny photo at the end?â€
Thanks to Mary and Eric for doing such a great job on the article, and thanks to the rest of the nice citizens of Fairbanks that have been cheering us on since they read the article. We are officially on our way home and the encouragement helps for the long journey ahead of us.
On Saturday, June 6, 2009 The World by Road reached it’s final major milestone. At the end of the Dalton Highway, in Prudhoe Bay, Alaska, lies the Arctic Ocean. This is the most northern point in North America that one can drive, finishing one of the expeditions major goals. Steve chose to wear boots for his “dip” into the water as the ocean is still almost completely frozen over.
Back in Mexico, there is a special town named Tequila. As you all may have guessed, that is where Tequila comes from. It is one of the most charming cities we went to on the entire expedition and the tour of the Jose Cuervo headquarters was impressive to say the least. While you might expect the tour to be just a standard corporate tour coming from the one of the largest liquor brands in the world, it actually had an intimacy that was quite welcoming.
We learned a ton as we went out to the fields to meet the Jimadors. They are the men that harvest the Agave plants. They showed us how it is all done, told us stories of the history of the industry, and even let us give it a try. Later we went back to the processing plant and saw how it all becomes the drink that Mexico is famous for. The tour took us through the process and eventually led us to the tasting cellar, where we had a chance to try the Reserva de la Familia, the best Tequila in the world according to numerous taste tests. After our tasting lesson, I think the whole crew agrees with the taste test.
We have the photos up from our trip on the Fraser River in British Colombia. The section of river that we rafted was just outside the Mount Dobson park, which is the highest mountain in British Colombia. It makes for the most incredibly picturesque setting to float down a river. What a great day.
If you are interested in learning more about rafting in BC, click here.
Being on the road isn’t exactly becoming for a girl… or a guy, for that matter. One loses sight of their appearance, not necessarily by choice, but by diversion. We have Nels with a mop on his head resembling that of a bum, a whole crew full of split ends, and a lack of style that would make any hairdresser scoff. Luckily for the crew, two wonderful ladies, Laura and Lolly at The Bad Kittie Salon, located just off Colfax in the Blue Bird District, helped us find our way out of the style dungeon the road put us in. At first glance the ladies didn’t think they had much of a challenge ahead of them. After the wash and a couple of snips, the women needed a drink. Lolly filled her cup, rolled up her sleeves and took on the madness of Nels and Steel’s rats nest. Laura, manning the other chair, went about the task of the never-ending head of hair on top of my head. I’m pretty sure she was sore the next day.
The salon’s talent is impressive and the ambiance is unlike any other. Laura’s station is set in the front where a giant window showcases Colfax Ave. “The Fax†is a one of a kind road traveling through the heart of Denver. Diverse characters walk the busy street for work, commuting, or simple entertainment. I highly enjoy sitting back in the chair and staring at the busy world outside. There, however, is much more entertaining things going on within the salon itself. Once a month local artist’s work is rotated throughout the salon, giving a medium for the starving, hardworking, likeminded, creative souls. This month they are hanging a collection created by Kelsey Beatrix Dalton. Last month’s artist was that of a good friend of mine, Steven Schaffner. His work is currently posted on their website, and I highly recommend you check it out! www.thebadkittiesalon.com
The Bad Kitty also regularly organizes and participates in fashion shows, art shows, and school and food drives. They truly enhance and promote happiness and beauty within the community. Prior to me joining The World by Road crew I got the opportunity to engage in one of their local events. It was their 2008 Fourth of July Fashion Show, in which they teamed up with a local designer, the owner of Fabric Lab, to model the latest line. This event was one of their first and the photographer happened to not show up. My camera is never out of reach, so I offered my services and snapped a few head shots before it was my turn to do the cat walk. It was a great night, and really shows how much Bad Kittie cares for their community.
Special thanks to Laura and Lolly! We will be able to confidently make our way to Alaska with style and grace.
Photo Exhibition of Celeste, Nels and Steel’s Hair:
Laura and Lolly about to get to work
Laura getting to work on my head of hair
Smile says it all.
Please note Lolly’s look in regard to Nels’ hair
Since leaving Denver we have been camping about 75% of the time and cannot complain, the surroundings are beautiful, the wildlife is plentiful, and the temperature is a mild 50-75 degrees Fahrenheit with the constant light outside. It is nice to wake up to the fresh air, cook delicious meals and go to sleep after relaxing by the campfire. While the air is fresh our stinky butts are not with some runs putting us 3-4 days or more between showers, sporting a perfume reminiscent of campfire, body odor and camp kitchen.
In the USA and especially here in the North, most places are not in much need of marking help. In fact here in Alaska, many of the hotels are only open in the summer so they cannot afford to give anything away in order to make up for zero profit for half of the year. The result is that our usual ease of finding accommodation sponsors is fading, only to leave us with an excellent chance to make sure that if we did not hone our camping skills in over the last 2 years of the expedition, we most certainly will surface from the last two months as camping experts.
The final push to Prudhoe Bay will present us nearly 1000 miles of off road, temperatures peaking at 32 degrees, and 5 solid days of camping. Our last 3 days have been just what we needed to prepare for the final leg. At the Minnie Street B&B in downtown Fairbanks, Lambert and Marnie Hazelaar have given us the Jacob’s Ladder suite, which has been our office and home for the final preparation. The backyard of the property is large and comfortable with a hammock and plenty of grass to relax in the 24 hour light of the summer. The kitchen in our suite is equipped with all that we need to make dirt and bug free meals, has a coffee maker to keep us fired up to get as much work done as possible, and a fridge with ice for cold refreshments. In the back is a washing machine to help cleanse the stench of the road, and living room has comfy couches to ease our creaking joints from too many hours in the trucks.
Our constant rollercoaster of star ratings ranging from sleeping with the bears in the woods to luxurious B&Bs keeps perspective for us on how nice it is to have a daily shower. The whole crew cleans up very nicely when we have a chance and once clean we cannot thank our hosts enough for inviting us to the delicious breakfasts they cook for us each morning. Beyond the chance to have a real breakfast sitting at a real dining room table, the more awesome thing about our latest visits to B&Bs allows us to learn more about the locals by chatting over breakfast. Since we are away from our families and homes, it is nice to be taken care of by some families along the way. The personal touch that they have makes a simple place to sleep into an experience, and our spirits have been recharged for the long journey north.
We cannot thank Lambert and Marnie enough for sponsoring the accommodation, it is people like them that keep this journey going with their generosity. Maybe next time we are in town we will be able to pay, it would be well worth the money. And as Nels always likes to stay on our way back to the B&B, “When are we getting back to that little slice of heaven?â€
Want to find out how you can support us? Click here
Quote of the Week: “Be careful out there. You’re camping on the bear trail. They just woke up, and they’re hungry.â€-Karen, the Bartender/Camp Attendant at the Sealaksa Bar, in Hyder, Alaska, warning us on where we were staying.
We put some miles behind us this week, that is for sure. We took off from the wonderful home of Rosel and Wilf at their bed and breakfast in Prince George and headed north. Again, their hospitality was incredible, and it was a pleasure for all of us to sit at their table to have breakfast with them.
Meanwhile, Steve had talked to some people, and they had told him that Hyder, Alaska was a must see on our way north, so that is exactly where we went. It sits in the southeast corner of Alaska and is known as the, “Friendliest Ghost Town in the Alaska.â€Â It has the feel of a deserted Old West town, and boasts 100 people in the summer and 60 in the winter.
We liked the the little town so much we couldn’t just stay one night, so we made it two. As the quote of the week states, we camped right on a bear trail, and had a beautiful scenic view of the surrounding mountains. We were able to get a hike in to the Pacific Coast, and again were in awe of the scenery.
From Hyder we headed north to do battle with the vastness of the Yukon. It is so sparsely populated and desolate that it was really interesting, yet eerie to drive through. That, combined with the fact that the sun never really goes down, really played a trick on our minds. It hit midnight, was light as day, and we couldn’t find anywhere to stay, so we pulled off a side road to camp along a little body of water. The mosquitoes were out in full force, but that wasn’t half as bad as the number of bear paw prints covering the area. There was no other choice, and we had a long day, so we pitched our tents and fell asleep.
From there we had 588 miles left before we’d hit Fairbanks, and had the pleasure to drove on what I’d like to call “Trampoline Highway.â€Â The bumps and almost “jumps†in the road made for an almost carnival ride in the trucks, but we made it to the border, and then our final destination of Fairbanks.
It was here that we were accommodated by a very nice couple at the Minnie Street Bed and Breakfast. They’ve had the bed and breakfast for 18 years, and you can see how they have perfected their business in that time. There service and hospitality were more than gracious, with comfortable and cozy rooms, and incredibly delicious food. Minnie Street Bed and Breakfast is a must visit in Fairbanks, Alaska.
Today, we’re heading to the dining room to have some breakfast, and then we’re heading north to Prudhoe Bay. We’ve been battling BP to get access to the very end of the road, without much luck, but we’ll see what happens. It’ll be great for all of us to finally make our way up there and complete the final part of the journey, reaching the most northern part of North America. We’re ready.
One can’t beat a day on the river, and that’s exactly what we were able to enjoy with Maligne Rafting Adventures out of Jasper, Alberta, Canada. They’ve been running the rapids since 1987, and immediately you can tell why they’ve been the provider of quality rafting adventures for so long. The receptionists were more than welcoming, their staff were really helpful, and the guides were professional and highly skilled.
Our next destination from Jasper was Prince George, which worked out well because it was right on the route to the Fraser River, about an hour west of Jasper, in the Mount Robson Provincial Park, so we followed their bus with our trucks. We met the guides, Aron and Drew, at the designated spot, and got suited up with a wetsuit, insulated water shoes, a windbreaker type jacket, a life jacket, and a helmet. Aron, our river guide for the day, gave us a short safety speech, while Drew, the driver/photographer, began his photographic documentation of our trip.
We pushed off and entered the glacier fed Fraser River. The river was definitely cold, but our gear kept us really comfortable, so it wasn’t bad at all. We were immediately awestruck at the scenic beauty of the surroundings on the Fraser River. The snow covered Mount Robson stood off in the distance, while thousands of pine trees lined the meandering river. We couldn’t have asked for a better day. The sun was at our backs and we were ready for what the river had in store.
Our trip started with some calm water that enabled us to take in the scenery, but then quickly turned into some really fun rapids. As Aron stated, “It’s early season, and the river is getting better each day, so I’m always anxious to see how it’s running.†We then had to stop at an eddy, and haul our raft around a pretty wicked, but beautiful waterfall. Pictures are the only thing to give it justice. This was the half-way point of our trip. We then immediately hit the biggest rapids of the float, and Shoppman got some great footage as he had the camera, in the waterproof casing, right in the front. Water engulfed him, and some of the photos none of the crew is even visible. We had a pretty calm float the rest of the way to the bus, got a chance to man the guide oars, and were able to have a great chat with Aron.
We made it back to the bus, and took off our glacier wet clothes. We had a amazing time on the Fraser River with Maligne Rafting Adventures, and highly recommend it to people old and young, and for all rafting abilities. One can never go wrong with the combination of scenic beauty and a little adventure.