Done And Done

No more shipping the trucks! When we were in the planing stages of the expedition, we could not have possibly imagined how difficult, complicated, convoluted, annoying and downright painful the overseas shipping process could be. After four international, overseas container shipments during the course of the expedition, one would think that we are now knowledgeable experts when it comes to shipping vehicles abroad. The sad reality of the situation is the only thing we really know about putting a vehicle into a container and sending it to another country is that we never care to do it again. Steve and I have been waiting for this moment ever since we sealed the Toyotas in a container for the first time nearly two years ago.

This last shipment from Cartagena, Colombia to Colon, Panama was, in all actuality, probably the easiest of our four overseas shipments but that does not mean it was not without its own share of complications and headaches. Maybe that is just the nature of the beast. Fortunately for us though, we had a lot of help this time trying to tame the beast that is shipping to the extent possible. Through our contacts at the yacht club in Cartagena, we were put in touch with Manfred Alwardt. Manfred introduced himself as a facilitator who could assist us in getting our trucks from Colombia to Panama and around the Darien Gap. Manfred is an imposing German ex-pat who has been living in Colombia for more than 20 years and has spent most of those years facilitating things. Manfred’s outward appearance combined with the fact that he did not remove his dark aviator sunglasses or put down his beer during the entire initial conversation he had with Steve led us to be a little wary of him and the services he offered. Based upon our initial reactions, we decided to try and arrange for the shipment of the Toyotas to Panama on our own. However, after running into the usual roadblocks, incompetent employees, hyperinflated fees and typical shipping industry bullshit, we decided to roll the dice and give old Manfred a shot. What did we have to loose? We have never really trusted anyone else when it came to shipping the trucks and after the last experience, we especially did not trust anyone in the industry, so we went out on a limb and decided to put our faith in one of the least likely of individuals.

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Manfred the facilitator

For once, we caught a break and the gamble worked, and after going through the process with Manfred, we realized that it was not really a gamble after all and that Manfred should have been the obvious choice to assist us from the beginning. Manfred knew the shipping industry in Colombia in and out, knew what paperwork needed to be completed and more importantly, what paperwork did not and like any competent facilitator, Manfred knew the right people in the right places. Confident and armed with decades of experience and German-like precision, Manfred walked around the port like he owned the place. After it was all said an done, Manfred had our trucks loaded in a container ready for the first ship bound for Colon for nearly $1,000 less than the cheapest quotes we were provided from freight forwarding companies in Cartagena. As an added bonus, we were loaded on a container ship with a transit time of two days instead of the six days offered by everyone else. We did have to contend with the Colombian national police and their anti-narco trafficking search of our vehicles and possessions… a process that proved to be quite long, obnoxious and essentially of little effect if we actually were trying to smuggle narcotics out of Colombia, but that was out of Manfred’s hands. Manfred’s commission for all of the work he put in was more than reasonable and the only condition we had to meet was to have a few beers with him at the yacht club once the container was loaded and taken away. I wish we could have found a Manfred in Buenos Aires, Cape Town, Singapore, Sydney and Los Angeles.

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Ensuring the shipment is free of Bolivian Boogie Dust and Colombian Penicillin

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Breaking the container seals in Panama for the last time

There were some to be expected hoops to jump through on the Panamanian side of the shipment and the port workers in Colon backed the Tundra into a concrete wall while driving it out of the container, but after having gone through what we have in the past, it was all extremely bearable. It is still a bit puzzling however, that a country with arguably one of the busiest and most internationally recognizable and important shipping lanes in the world (the Panama Canal) has some pretty primitive procedures in place for processing container shipments but then again, the entire shipping industry in and of itself is pretty puzzling. The bottom line is that the trucks are back on terra firma and there is now nothing, (at least nothing in the form of a body of water serviced solely by greedy shipping companies and aggravating freight forwarding agents), blocking us from our current location and our final destination in the United States. Shipping the trucks internationally was exceptionally tough and the battles in the trenches were long, painful and frustrating, but we can now safely say that that war is finally over. Who actually won that war is debatable. In case you were wondering, here is the casualty report…

Los Angeles, USA to Sydney, Australia Cost – $5,500,  Duration – 41 days

Darwin, Australia to Singapore Cost – $2,100, Duration – 19 days

Cape Town, South Africa to Buenos Aires Argentina Cost – $6,500, Duration – 31 days*

Cartagena, Colombia to Colon, Panama Cost – $2,400, Duration – 2 days

*Plus another five plus weeks dealing with getting the trucks out of customs once they did arrive

If you do happen to be shipping a vehicle, or anything else for that matter, through Cartagena, Manfred the facilitator is definitely your man and he can be reached at: manfred.al@gmx.net

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The New Crew

You have all been introduced to Craig, and now we have Steel and Nels here as well.  I think you may have noticed their names in some previous blogs, but now you can learn a little more with their bios that I managed to get online today.

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Trek To The San Blas Islands

4:45 a.m. rolled around and it was time to get up.  The great people at Luna’s Castle Hostel, in the Casco Viejo neighborhood of Panama City, set us up with a jeep ride to Carti to meet the rest of The World By Road crew for the first time in the San Blas Islands.

Steel Jones and I had absolutely no clue what we were in for.  A jeep promptly picked us up outside the hostel at 5am.  The vehicle was painted in mud, the off road tires meant business, and the driver’s knee-high rubber boots translated into some possible tough terrain.

The rugged El Llano-Carti highway essentially has two parts.  The first being your relativity chill drive through the outskirts of the city, past many car repair shops, and palm trees.  The second, however, I viewed as a ride at an amusement park.  The switch-back, up and down madness that ensued was pure craziness.  This part of the road is a gravel, small rock, mud and clay combination that makes an interesting foundation for such a trek.   Our driver, however, brilliantly maneuvered through what seemed like an off-road race course.  If it wasn’t for our four-wheel drive we would be amongst the other vehicles that were still lying upside down off the cliffs below.  Our driver made sure to point out the tracks of those that weren’t so lucky, and I think it gave him a boost of confidence that he wasn’t one of them.  I, at that time, was in no mood to question any of his motives, and looked over the edge in awe.

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Slow moving clouds made their way around the low chain of forested mountains to make for some pretty awesome scenery.  The clouds, however, turned to rain, and rain on this off-road course is definitely not a positive.  Dirt turns to thick mud, and clay gets even more funky, but we pressed on.

All of the sudden the driver took a wide turn and popped it into reverse. We were careening down a mud spackled hill in reverse towards a river that was too deep to cross in a truck. Interesting, I thought, but by this time nothing surprised me.  The tires were slowly sinking as we backed down the clay filled earth.  I looked behind to see a murky river with two homemade boats, resembling canoes along the bank, manned by the local indigenous peopled called the Kuna.  Since it had rained, the jeep was unable to cross the river and there were boats for our voyage to Carti.  The trip down the river had dense jungle forest on each side, with sun shining down through the tree canopies and old abandoned villages spotting the banks.  Up ahead was another Kuna boat with two men feverishly bailing out water. I looked back to see if our captain was going to stop to help. We stopped, not for assistance, but to board that boat.  I smirked, grabbed a plastic bailing tool, and did my part.

This journey was to take us to a Kuna village in the Gulf of San Blas. The Kuna merchant boat took us to the Caribbean Ocean making its way to a tiny Kuna island village. The boat pulled along a makeshift pier, we unloaded our gear, and were led through a tiny passage way between simple thatched-roofed huts to a picnic table on the other side of the island. It took about a minute and a half. Our guide welcomed us to the Kuna Island, told us that he was happy we came to stay with them, that lunch was to be served shortly, and since their accommodation was full we were to be going to Diablo Island (Devil Island) to stay with his grandfather, Jimmy. He then said we were free to explore. The crowded huts lined each side of the four foot path around the small island. There was no electricity, dirt floors, and no plumbing.

Nikon 086 The men were all smiles, gracious hosts, and dressed in traditional Western attire.  One guy wore board shorts, a Nike cut-off shirt, and a Yamaha trucker hat.  The women, however, wore traditional, bright colored garments.  A gold ring was pierced through tip of their noses, and many beautiful beaded bracelets wrapped around their arms and legs.   The children were alive with energy and some of the most athletic kids I’ve seen.  They were break-dancing on the dirt paths with Steel and diving down to unbelievable depths to find coins the older children were throwing into the water.

A pasta meal, salad, and fresh vegetables were served before we headed back to the boat to encounter the waters again to get to Diablo Island.  Our hour boat jaunt through the Gulf of San Blas got us to our destination.  There were three thatched roof huts, and palm trees.  Nothing more, nothing less.  If paradise was a place it would be here.  White sand beaches circled the outer twenty feet of the small island.   Islands you only see in cartoons stood alone off in the distant.

DSCN0009In an attempt to clean up the island, that takes fifteen minutes to walk around, Jimmy had made piles of dead palm branches, so he was more than pleased that we stacked a bunch of them together for a massive bonfire to be blazed later that evening.  Jimmy cooked us some rice and fresh fish for dinner before we set the pile on fire.

The sun set beyond the Caribbean horizon, and the palm leaves burned quickly.  No artificial light seemed to make way for millions of stars that scattered the night’s sky.  One couldn’t ask for a better end to a crazy adventure of a day, and we were luckily only one island away from where the rest of the crew would be the next day.  An unreal twenty-four hour period, not too bad, for a total of twenty dollars.

Photo of the Week: Our lives are in your hands

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For better or worse, Captain Hernando was our leader during the 5 day, 4 night sailing trip from Cartagena, Colombia to El Porvenir, Panama.  The trip took us through 20ft waves on his 30ft boat, the Stella Luna, and the San Blas Islands. *Please note the oversized T-shirt sporting every character in the Disney vault.

Sailing the San Blas archipelago around the Darien

Point of Departure: Cartagena Yacht Club

Point of Arrival: Panama City, Panama via San Blas Islands

Mode of Transport: 30ft Single Mast Sail Boat

Approximate hours at sea: 41

Captain: A gregarious loose cannon named Hernando

Crew: 6 travelers entirely un-experienced in sailing and just trying to get to Panama

Now as you try to wrap your head around the basic logistics that finally put us on the North American continent, might I suggest you go ahead and think of it as a veritable “shit-show at sea”?   That being said though, we would not have had it any other way–before, during or after the whole affair!  We found ourselves in this precarious situation after receiving many outrageous quotes from the monopolizing companies in the shipping industry and decided to parlay the knowledge of the locals who use the the city’s yacht club as their own personal office.  There we found Manfred, a German ex-pat who would become an incredible assistance in shipping the trucks. There we also came across a man none of us will soon forget, a man who is 58 and is the epitome of weathered sea captain—complete with gray beard, captivating stories, a bum leg, and a Nikon 137raging alcohol problem.  He makes the trip between the two countries on his personal boat/ home-sweet-home at least twice a month, almost always for the sake of taking overland travelers around the Darien.  Some choose to fly, but for others taking four or five days to make the journey the old fashioned way is what seems to be the undeniably better option.  After both of the trucks were packed safely in the containers, and with all transactions complete, we finally left Colombia around 4pm.  Hernando, cerveza in hand, showed us around our new digs in a little less than 30 seconds.  He also explained that we would be alternating steering shifts for the 40+ hour open-ocean sail.  Since there were 6 passengers total, each would have their turn at the helm every 12 hours for 2 straight hours–that is if no one fell ill with sea-sickness, which they did (we all did) and thus making certain shifts longer and more frequent.  In fact, as we motoring out of the sheltered bay, we were approached by the Colombian Coast Guard who upon learning of our destination, needed to double check the conditions as they believed it might be too dangerous of a time to depart.  It took several minutes for them to radio the proper authorities, and in the mean time, since it really looked as if they were sharing a bottle of rum, Hernando thought it would be it would be a good idea to offer the guards a beer each for their service. They declined and asked for Cokes instead…probably to mix with their rum.  Either way, they gave us  the green light.  We were all still pretty stoked for the voyage until we soon realized that 41 hours was going to be among the longest 41 hours of our collective lives due to the sheer size of of the boat (or lack thereof, rather) where the only option below deck is to lay down for fear of throwing up the lunch you didn’t have an appetite for in the first place.  Our only real direction for steering the boat-as per Hernando-was to stay as close to the bearing of 260° as possible.  Sounds easy enough, right?  Sure, I guess, but when a mere 10° more than that places the sails directly into a terrifying cross wind, things get a little tricky.  When this happens, the rudder becomes increasingly hard to rectify and if one of the jarring 18′ swells hits the deck just right, everyone and everything is now soaked for the rest of the voyage.  Oh well, such is the life at sea.  When working the helm right, it can be fun and perhaps a little inspiring as you drift into a bygone age staring at the teetering horizon.  Overnight shifts were a little different.  It is when everyone else (including El Capitan) are asleep, and your only companion is the red, floating orb-of-a-compass that is dissecting your past, present and future that you know your faculties have truly begun to falter.

Nikon 169 However each of us felt about those 41 hours, I can certainly speak for everyone when I say that we were all very grateful it was over and we had been dropped off in a Corona commercial.  365 islands make up the archipelago and compared to a lot of other tropical island destinations world wide, San Blas  is almost entirely unspoiled and where the Kuna natives still live in the same vein as  their ancestors of yesteryear.  It was on the second of the two islands that we arranged to meet our two newest crew members…Ladies and Gentlemen, I present you with Mr. Steel Hennessey Jones and a Mr. Nels Richard Thoresen.  Let it be known that they were selected not on merit, but on their given names. 

The best part of the journey came on the last day when Hernando bought not only fresh red snapper for breakfast ceviche, but 3 enormous crabs and 2 whole lobsters from Kuna fisherman.  The whole meal came to less than $16  but would easily have cost several hundred at a restaurant at home.  There truly was nothing like it, sharing crab legs the size of the morning snapper on the bow of a sail boat in one of the most picturesque places of the Caribbean.  From there we parted ways with our fellow greenhorns and Hernando, and took Nels and Steel back to Panama City to await the arrival of the trucks…

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Just one of many

 

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The Captain making the Ceviche.  Please note the “pants”.

 

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Our boat, the Stella Luna and the calm after the storm

 

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Kuna Islanders

 

 

Getsemani and Casa El Carretero

For those of you that don’t know, the famed Pan American highway isn’t exactly a complete run from Alaska to southern South America, the road unfortunately lacks roughly 57 miles between Panama and Colombia.  The reason being: a 3,000 sq/mi. area known as the Darien Gap.  The main hindrance to building out these last measly miles is the gap’s composition of several harsh geographical terrains–ranging from low-lying wetlands in the northern reaches of Colombia to a dense, mountainous rain forest at the southern end of Panama.  It is also was TWBR’s main hindrance as our final shipment of the expedition!  However, the good news was getting to spend a few extra days in one of the most picturesque cities on the continent: Cartagena!

Over the past few years, the city, it’s people and it’s surrounding attractions have all been praised by countless travel publications making it a “must-see destination” and for once, I could not agree more.  We were hosted at Casa El Carretero, one of the city’s few boutique hotels.  The converted three story space has been perfectly redone and here, attention to detail reigns supreme.  The owners have outfitted their creation with a superb staff who made us feel completely at home. Over the 5 days we stayed, we could not have been made to feel more at h0me, and was exactly what we needed after the long hot days pounding the pavement dealing with all the dreaded agencies that make up the shipping industry.  063But at least the relaxed Caribbean atmosphere helps to keep everyone’s head on straight while running errands and then when that is all done you can just sit back and watch as the city really comes to life after dark.

The sun begins to set around 6pm, and the minute it does, when the day time temperatures of 100+ begin to cool off it seems as though the entire city has finally agreed to abandon the shady confines of their homes and fill the streets.  This couldn’t be more true in our residential neighborhood of Getsemani where Cuban infused Salsa music barely drowns out the kids’ laughter and giddy shrieks dominate the last 6 hours of the day while they ride bikes, skateboards and even donkeys through the narrow streets.  You can quickly sense the true camaraderie among the neighbors and it is really something special.  While the kids are running amok, their elders chat quietly over supper as they, too, are taking it all in.

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Over the past few years, the city, it’s people and it’s surrounding attractions have all been praised by countless travel publications making it a “must-see destination” and for once, I could not agree more.  As it is a port city situated on the northern Colombian coast, it maintains a spicy blend of both Caribbean and Latino influence.  It’s a very unique place where not only does sexiness and confidence abound, there is also inherent feeling of general contentment.  I enjoy anywhere a society is comfortable enough to leave all street level windows and doors wide open for people to come and go and to give passersby a little sample of their family flavor!

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You have got to be kidding me

Sometimes I see the news and cannot believe my eyes.  This post was from a little while ago, but I came across it again recently. On Facebook, people can create groups to talk about all kinds of silly things from cars to makeup to pop culture.  Recently, some employees of British Airways started one to get together and compare stories of how much it sucks to deal with all the passengers getting on the plane.

  • Described passengers as ‘smelly and annoying’
  • Ridiculed ‘silly American accents’
  • Complained about passengers who put boarding passes in their mouths

Oh my, how could they do that?  This is an outrage that the attendants would have the nerve to say such hurtful things. No American should ever have to hear those words…silly accent.  IT IS AN OUTRAGE, CALL THE ACLU!! There was another case of this a while back where 13 employees lost their job over it.  So my question is, why are these passengers searching around Facebook for groups to chat about British Airways flight?  And more importantly, why in the world would they get so worked up to actually make a fuss about it?  It is a website people, come on.  Give these employees a break, they had the courtesy to keep these comments to themselves when they were tearing your spit soaked boarding pass. Let them vent.

My advice to these passengers is, you probably do smell, get soap. It is likely I have had to sit next to you on the plane before. Your accent is silly, I have the same one. For crying out loud, you are not in kindergarten, keep the boarding passes out of your mouth. Please post your comments about this, who has enough time to sue an airline over a Facebook group saying they are smelly?

http://www.travelweekly.co.uk/blogs/2008/11/british-airways-staff-attack-p.html

Sailing The Gap

It has been a time consuming and difficult process trying to find a way around the Darien Gap here in Colombia, but we have finally managed to bypass the gap and are going to do it in an exciting way. Dealing with the shipping companies in Cartagena has been pretty much par for the course in terms of mind numbing complexity and ridiculousness. The first several quotes we received for our 40′ container were well over $3,000. If you consider that it cost us about $4,000 to ship the trucks in a 40′ container from Cape Town to Buenos Aires via Spain and about $5,000 to ship them from Los Angeles to Sydney with both of these previous shipments consisting of thousands of nautical miles of distance to be covered and over a month of transit time, you can imagine our frustration. The shipment from Cartagena, Colombia to Colon, Panama only takes one day and covers only a few hundred miles, so the shipping companies are raking in some good money down here. In fact, they are raking in so much money transporting goods around the Darien Gap I would not be surprised if they were somehow responsible for the blocking of and the delay in finishing the final section of the Pan-American Highway through the Gap. If and when the missing section does open, the shipping businesses serving this particular route will be hit hard, even if they decide to charge outrageous tolls to cross that section of highway. The good news is that we did manage to track down a German guy, Manfred, who has been living here in Colombia for the past 20 plus years who describes himself as a “facilitator.” Manfred has successfully facilitated a much cheaper shipment for us and if we get the trucks to Panama without any problems for the price we have been quoted, we will spread the word about Manfred’s services. So, that seems to have taken care of the difficult task of getting the trucks around the Darien Gap.

As for the four TWBR crew members, there are a couple of ways to get to Panama. The most obvious and convenient way to get to Panama is to fly. Colombian airlines fly regularly from Cartagena to Panama City and the flight is short (about an hour) and cheap. However, the departure tax from Colombia will cost you about the same as your airline ticket, so flying to Panama will, in actuality, set you back about $250. If you have some flexibility and some time on your hands, a much more exciting way to get to Panama is by boat. There are sailboats making the trip between Panama and Colombia, but the trick is finding one and finding out when they are actually leaving as there are not set schedules. There are some hostels in both Panama City and Cartagena that can help to arrange these boats, but we decided to try and see what we could come up with on our own. We went down to the Cartagena yacht club to ask around and within minutes, found captain Hernando Higuera and his 35′ sailboat the Stella Luna. For a little more than the price of airfare, Hernando agreed to take us to Panama on his boat. The trip with Hernando includes 5 days on the boat, all meals and the experience of learning how to sail in the open ocean. To make the deal even more appealing is the opportunity to spend three of those days exploring the San Blas Islands off the coast of Panama. So, instead of getting a complementary soda and watching the Caribbean pass by beneath us on an airplane, we opted for the chance to fish, snorkel, sail and meet the indigenous people of the San Blas Islands with captain Hernando. Hopefully the trip will go smoothly and the weather will be favorable. One thing is for sure, we will be traveling around the Darien Gap in style. We will let everyone know how the trip, (and the shipment), went once we arrive and get situated in Panama.

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Cartagena Yacht Club

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New Photos – Navimag Ferry

To save a bit on driving time and gas consumption and to take advantage of a unique opportunity to check out the beauty of the Chilean fjords, we decided to take the Navimag Ferry from Puerto Natales more than 2,000 kilometers north to the town of Puerto Montt. The ferry is basically a commercial operation transporting commercial goods such as produce and livestock from the isolated southern coast of Chile to Puerto Montt, where the main highway begins and runs all the way north to Santiago and beyond. In recent years, the Navimag company has begun taking passengers on the ferry and during the peak tourist season, the ferry makes scheduled stops along the way including many of the glaciers.

Unfortunately, it was not the peak season for us and since it was still considered winter, we were on the abbreviated trip to Puerto Montt. The ferry was still quite interesting and the sights were amazing. We met a lot of great people and Laura turned 25 somewhere in the middle of the southern fjords of Chile. Unbeknown to the passengers onboard the Navimag, we were actually making really good time and when we arrived in Puerto Montt a day early, there was a near mutiny onboard. A crisis was averted but not before many heated discussions in the dinning room. Eventually, Navimag agreed to put us all up in the Holiday Inn for the night, but that would have to wait until we completed the disembarkation process. Since the ferry sped ahead, we arrived in port at night and during low tide. The tide was low enough that it forced us all to have to clamber down the side of the ship to small harbor boats waiting to whisk us ashore. Because the tide was too low to approach the dock, Steve and I had to return at 2 in the morning when the tide was high enough for the vessel to unload to fetch the Toyotas. It turned out to be quite the experience.

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New Photos – Torres del Paine

One of the highlights of Chilean Patagonia is definitely the mountains and peaks in Torres del Paine National Park. We planned to catch the Navimag ferry from Puerto Natales, Chile in a few days and it was a convenient location because the national park was only an hour dive outside of Natales. Torres del Paine is notorious for bad weather and since we were there during the end of winter, we did not know quite what to expect. Some people travel half way around the world to catch a glimpse of the spectacular Cordillera del Paine only to return home disappointed because the peaks were obscured by clouds. Since we only had a few days to spend in the park, we hoped our luck would be a little better. We entered the park, it was after dark and the weather was already bad. We were greeted by strong winds and rain as we set up camp and the wind continued to keep us awake all night. The next morning, the rain had let up a bit but the wind was still howling. We had nothing better to do, so we waited and hoped for a break in the weather. Luckily, we did get a break that was big enough and long enough to see just how amazing the mountains in Torres del Paine really are. The previous night, we had no idea how close we were to the Cordillera, but once the clouds lifted, they revealed themselves to be just on the other side of the lake we were camping next to. Patagonia is an amazing place and the mountains in Torres del Paine combined with the local wildlife add to the splendor and beauty of this one-of-a-kind area.

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