China/General Update

Hello everybody. The Thundra, Little Pepe, Steve and I are currently in Luang Nam Tha, Laos about 50 kilometers from the China border crossing at Botan. We are going to cross over into China on Monday and are still waiting to see if we will have to leave the Toyotas at the border for a few days. We have been extremely busy trying to figure this whole China thing out and the last few days have been quite hectic. It finally seems that with the exception of a few loose ends though, we will be on the open road in China with our guide "Jason" very soon.

Given that we are not quite sure what our internet access will be like while we are in China, we have also spent the last several days preparing for the Central Asia leg of the journey. We have our paperwork for Russia processing as we speak which should not be much of a problem. After that, it is into Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. For the most part, the required documentation and permissions for the "stans" are pretty straight forward, although we are having a bit of difficulty with Turkmenistan. However, after dealing with getting into China for the last 3 months, we are veterans of road research and diplomacy and have already found our way over a few of the hurdles we encountered with TM. The next several months are shaping up to be quite exciting.

But enough about us. I know everyone wants to see some photos, which the recent blog entries have been lacking, so after we finish cleaning all of the contraband out of the trucks tomorrow before heading north into China, we will work on some photo galleries for your viewing pleasure.

Just What the Doctor Ordered

Many of you are now well aware of the ongoing saga of getting our vehicles into China. We were supposed to get in on August 27th, but were then informed that we would have to wait for an official to return from a business trip before crossing the border. As luck would have it, our contact has indicated that it will be possible for us to enter on the 27th after all. Obviously, however, there are some strings attached. We have to leave the Toyotas in a secure government warehouse until the official returns and has time to sign and stamp our paperwork. Additionally, we may have to pay a parking fee which, according to our contact, might be "quite expensive." Hopefully this will only be for a few days.

In the meantime, we will have those few days to take care of some other "requirements" that we would have had to complete anyway. These requirements include going to the provincial office to apply for our Chinese number plates for each vehicle (a formality), apply for and take photographs for our Chinese driver’s licenses (another formality) and go to a government doctor to get a physical examination. Yes friends, you heard me correctly. Steve and I both have to pass a physical in order to complete the process necessary to drive the Thundra and Little Pepe on Chinese soil. I am not quite sure what the physical will entail, but the fact that we have to get one in the first place definitely falls into the category of being totally random. Assuming all goes well and Steve and I are not terminally ill, have epilepsy or some other unsuitable condition that will preclude us from driving, we will then proceed to take some sort of "test" to actually be issued the license itself. Again, this is still all pretty vague and we will know more once we are there, but it seems as we have managed to overcome a few more obstacles and jump through a few more hoops enabling us to be back on schedule… at least until the next e-mail from our contact.

So Close, Yet Still So Far

About a week ago, our contact in China informed us that Beijing had assigned an entry date for us to cross the border. After trying to get into China for months and trying to do so without breaking the bank, we were extremely excited about this news and have literally been counting down the days.

Well, in true TWBR fashion things have changed a bit. We are still going to get into China, but we may have to wait a little longer. Our contact recently informed us that there is an official in a local government office who must sign and stamp some of our papers but unfortunately, he is out of town on a business trip. As a result, our entry has been delayed because as our contact put it; "without the signature and stamp from the man, we can’t get the rest of the processing going."

We have grown somewhat accustomed to such occurrences, but you never really get used to them. We are 3 hours from from the border, have our individual visas and everything else we need to go to China, but since we have our Toyotas, things always tend to be a little bit more complicated. Unfortunately, our fate in terms of staying on schedule and getting through a country with 1.5 billion people rests in the hands of one single person. So with our hands completely tied, we are forced to again play the waiting game. How long we will have to wait is unclear because according to our contact, "I can’t say how long exactly it will delay our plan, but from my experience, I assume we may have to delay the entry date for one week."

Stay tuned folks, it has been an adventure getting into China and I am sure there will be more surprises on the road ahead and along the trail of paperwork that will eventually lead us to Mongolia.

Some TWBR Road Stats

Although the mileage indicator on our homepage gives you the general idea of how many miles we have put under our belts since we left Denver back in February, we get a lot of questions about how many miles we have driven in each country. We also get questions about how much gas costs in the countries we have traveled through. Like any other  “professionals,” we have actually been keeping detailed records about miles driven, fuel consumed and the average price of gasoline. Given the shear size of Australia, it is no surprise that it takes the cake for most miles driven, but unfortunately for us, we also spent the most we have per gallon on fuel. In total we have spent about $5,800 on gas for the Tundra and the Sequoia. Here are the details:

USA 

Total Miles Driven: 1,091 ( 1,746 kms)

Average Price Per Gallon: $2.75

Fuel Cost:  Tundra: $214.23

                  Sequoia: $176.55

Australia

Total Miles Driven: 4,465 (7,144 kms)

Average Price Per Gallon: $6.27 Australian Dollars ($4.94US)

Fuel Cost:  Tundra: $1,575.36

                  Sequoia: $1,297.24

Singapore

Total Miles Driven: 27 (43 kms)

Average Price Per Gallon: 6.65 Singapore Dollars ($4.34US)

Fuel Cost:  Tundra: $8.42

                  Sequoia: $6.94

Malaysia

Total Miles Driven: 1,184 (1,894 kms)

Average Price Per Gallon: 7.22 Ringit ($2.06US)

Fuel Cost:  Tundra: $174.28

                  Sequoia: $143.38

Thailand

Total Miles Driven: 1,667 (2,667 kms)

Average Price Per Gallon: 112.1 Bhat ($3.25US)

Fuel Cost:  Tundra: $387.08

                  Sequoia: $318.83

Cambodia

Total Miles Driven: 1,533 (2,453 kms)

Average Price Per Gallon: 14,820 Riel ($3.69US)

Fuel Cost:  Tundra: $404.05

                  Sequoia: $332.84

Laos

Total Miles Driven: 1,548 (2,477 kms)

Average Price Per Gallon: 34,580 Kip ($3.60US)

Fuel Cost:  Tundra: $398.16

                  Sequoia: $327.96

Mountains, Winding Roads and Your Friendly Neighborhood Rebels

Laos is an extremely beautiful country and has provided some much needed relief to the topographic mundaneness we were beginning to feel from the rest of SE Asia. Dramatic limestone carst cliffs dot the landscape pretty much the entire length of the country and the wilderness here is very pristine. Given the relatively small population density of Laos… Laos has roughly 6 million people compared to neighboring Vietnam’s 90 while occupying nearly the same size country, Laos has been able to set aside a significant amount of land as reserves thus protecting much of the countryside’s natural beauty. Seeing all of the mountains in their dramatic form brought back some good memories of home since the only mountains we have seen on the trip to date have really only been hills.

Driving north from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang and ever closer to our rendezvous with China took us through arguably some of the most spectacular scenery yet. National Highway 13N is little more than a backcountry road in most western countries and in some spots, is barely wide enough to accommodate the Toyotas and a passing bus or truck and after making it to Luang Prabang, I can also say that it is the windiest road I have ever been on. If you tend to get sick while riding in cars, this road would have been your demise. The straightest section of road was probably 100 meters long and represented a bridge spanning a raging river below. When everyone in the cars was not taking time to breathe deeply, we were enjoying the spectacular views after ascending several thousand feet and winding along the ridge line of some massive mountains. 

The road to Luang Prabang also takes you through Xieng Khuang province which is home to the Hmong people. Back during the days of the Vietnam War, the CIA trained a lot of the Hmong hilltribesmen to fight against the communists here in Laos. The war has long been over, but the rebels are still here and are still fighting to a certain extent. Even though a large number gave up their arms a few years ago, we still saw groups of rebels, some not more than 14 years old, walking down the road dressed in fatigues and each carrying a Kalashnikov rifle (AK-47) over their shoulders. Even higher up in the mountains, a few rebels appeared to be flagging down passing vehicles to solicit "donations." We did not stop, nor did we have any problems with the rebels, but it makes for interesting motoring when a guy sitting on the hillside staring at your car has an automatic rifle in his lap and his buddy has just come back from the truck in front of you with a few thousand Kip in his hand.

Knock Knock Knockin’ on China’s Door

After many months, numerous phone calls, help from countless people, a few foreign wire transfers between international bank accounts, and enough red tape to wrap the Great Wall, we have finally been authorized to enter China. That’s right, the powers that be in Beijing have signed and stamped all of our paperwork and our contact "Wayne" has indicated that we need to be at the Laos/China border on August 27th to meet our guide. The next day, August 28th (my birthday) we get our Chinese number plates affixed to the Toyotas and get our photos taken for our Chinese driver’s licenses.

This is great news because as many of you know, we have been waiting for this information for a long time. Without an entry date, we could not begin to plan the rest of the expedition once we leave China… which has to be on September 16th. China does have some interesting facets of life that we will soon become well aware of. In particular, our online life will be altered to a certain degree. Most communications that come in and out of China… e-mails, cell phone calls, land line calls, etc. are screened and filtered by the government. The only way to transfer non-filtered information is via satellite phone, which is why they have prohibited us from having one. We will still try and post blogs about our experiences, but we will have to see when we arrive.  Nonetheless, it is all very exciting and we are looking forward to driving through one of the largest, most populous and without a doubt mysterious countries in the world.

Let’s go back to Cambodia

It has been a busy couple of weeks so we have fallen behind on Photo Galleries.  We are eagerly working to get them caught up.  Here are a couple while we get finished…

Sihanoukville

http://www.theworldbyroad.com/photos/gallery2embedded.php?g2_itemId=7407&

Ban Lung

http://www.theworldbyroad.com/photos/gallery2embedded.php?g2_itemId=7327&

Keep your eyes on the sky, for us.

By this point there are probably not many that are still in the dark about Mars making its closest appearance to Earth, well basically ever. After recently receiving many emails regarding this celestial phenomena, the first response from the TWBRs was excitement that our vantage point would be ideal in some remote town while on the road. Then reality set in.

We have not had a day in the last three weeks without at least a few hours of rain, but even when the rain stops the clouds still hang around to keep us company. Unless some miracle happens and the monsoon season suddenly comes to a halt, the chance of us seeing Mars in all its glory is slim to none. So please make a point to look up and say, "Man it looks like we have two moons, how amazing, those poor suckers from The World by Road are drenched right now…" Then turn to the person that you are with and say, "Maybe we should donate some money to their cause to lift their spirits :)"

The ever changing crew

Recently we said goodbye to Steve Bouey’s father John.  After traveling for 3 weeks through Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos, he is currently on a plane from Saigon back to his home in Oakland, CA. It was a good few weeks and the TWBR knowledge of composting and organic biosolids has certainly increased as a result of his stay with us.  John’s company is called Bay Area Soil Products and is revolutionizing the industry with processes that are making leaps and bounds in improving soil and processing organic waste around the world. He enjoyed his time with us, but is certainly excited to get back to work and end his stint as a world nomad. Click the link above to learn more about what they are doing, it is a truly amazing thing.

About the same time we picked up John we also picked up Helen Todd.  We met her in Bangkok while she was in Thailand working on some research on the voluntarism trends in Thailand.  For those of you that are not aware of this type of travel, it is a way for people to give a little of their time to help out worthy causes around the world while getting a more authentic experience in a country by living with and helping out the locals. She was working at the Elephant Nature Park just outside of Chang Mai.  This allowed her to learn about the controversial subject of the way elephants are treated here in Asia.  Some elephants are used for illegal logging, others are used to take tourists on treks, and some are "begging elephants." A large majority of these elephants are abused and the park is there to help take care of them and advocate for better treatment of the animals.

When her time was over at the elephant park she took a flight to Saigon and became one of the newest team members.  She will be leaving soon to head back to the USA, but her bio is finally up and you can get to know a little more about her.  Click here to check it out.

In the next couple of days we will have another girl from South Africa meeting up, two filmmakers from India, and possibly even a guy from New Zealand. If you are interested in joining or know someone who is, please check out the join us page to learn more.

It’s actually quite easy.

A week does not go by without hearing the question, "How are you two funding this adventure?" The usual answer if we have the energy, takes somewhere in the neighborhood of 20 minutes. Of course we go through the usual explanation of the generosity of Stevinson Toyota, followed by the list of the rest of the sponsors who helped get this thing off the ground.  At some point Bouey chimes in with the usual, "I cashed out my 401K," and the looks that follow have a myriad of faces.

Some look disgusted that we would take such a risk putting all of our savings on the line without guaranteed sponsorship. Others have a look like they don’t believe it and that the sponsors must have given us more. It is the facts, whether stupid or not, we put a lot on the line to get this going, and even more to keep this going. Over a year ago the two of us flew out to California and talked with some potential sponsors.  After the business was over we made our way up to wine country near Sonoma, CA. In traditional TWBR style we chose the vineyard that was the most remote down a dirt road far off the main highway.  By accident we even ended up taking the scenic route out there.  The drive paid off as it wound through row after row of different types of exotic grape varieties lining the countryside with vivid color patterns. At the end of this long dirt road we found the Matanzas Creek Winery sitting on top of a hill in a quite picturesque setting with small mountains on both sides of the long valley.

After driving up the long driveway to the beautifully landscaped grounds of Matanzas Creek, we walked into the tasting room located at the end of a path making its way through gardens full of water features and lush greenery. A warm hello greeted the two of us. The man behind the tasting counter was a white-bearded mountain man looking character. His refined demeanor was welcoming as we started to talk with him and taste our first samples of wine for the day.

Tim, if I remember his name correctly asked, "What brings you gentleman all the way out here on a Friday?" As this was early on in our career of TWBR explanation, we were more than happy to give him the long of the short. He was overjoyed to have an interesting story to listen to as his days are slow during the week.  As the only two customers the entire hour of our time with Tim, the long winded story was welcome. Upon finding out the crazy scheme we had planned, Tim commended our ambition and praised our coming up with the idea at all.

"You two are some of the most determined guys I have ever met."

"Thanks, hopefully the sponsors will feel the same way you do."

Tim laughed and replied, "One of the things I like most about the two of you is the way you talk about the adventure." At this point in time we did not actually have any sponsors, the trucks, or any of the gear we needed other than a few cameras.

He continued, "Most of the time people talk about an idea they have with a hopeful attitude, which is great, but the two of you speak like the adventure is going to happen even though you are just getting started."

Over the course of the two years, as bar conversations and random thoughts led to Steve and I teaming up, not once had this thought ever crossed my mind. It was just something that had been on my mind for many years, my best friend was in, and the time had come to actually follow through. Hearing his cheers at a time of doubt certainly helped to keep our spirits high at the beginning of such a huge task.

It is hard for us to believe sometimes that we have made it this far.  We are ever so close to getting into China and have been on the road officially for 6 months.  It has finally set in as real…our lives are lived out of two trucks on the opposite side of the world.  The web stats keep on growing and we are gaining momentum with sponsors every day to help get funding to finish this adventure.  However, another reality has set in as well–we need more financial support.  Daily we work to get blogs up, find new team members, upload new photo galleries, deal with truck problems, get visas, and more.  We continue to get helpful words of encouragement just like the ones at Matanzas creek.  For that, we would like to offer a huge thanks.  Keep the comments and emails coming, it certainly is a wonderful end to a day to get a complement on all of the work we are doing. The problem is that compliments don’t put fuel in the tanks.

Beyond the wonderful compliments, we also get a lot of questions and requests.  Many of the requests are for more video content, others are for more photos. Truthfully, we love putting the content up and we certainly love producing it for all of you to enjoy. It does however cost a lot of money to produce it. There are fees for hosting, Internet connections, visas, hotels, gas…the list goes on and on.  Let me get to the point:

We need your help. For the cost of a magazine each month, you can help two broke guys go around the world and keep the content coming for your enjoyment. A magazine comes just once a month. Our content is updated almost every day. With the help of PayPal, have setup plans to help you support us.  The more support we get, the more likely you are to see even more content. If we did not have to spend so much of our day trying to figure out how to get more funding, we could spend it editing video, posting photos and writing stories.

So I will end with that.  Click the link below to learn more about the myriad of ways you can help us out, and please take the initiative to follow through with some of them.  We will be ever so grateful.  Some of the subscription plans are automatic, so just get it started and you don’t have to worry about it any more. It’s actually quite easy…support us and the content will get even better and more frequent.

Thanks again to everyone for everything.

Click here to learn more about helping us out.