Cry? What? Most people who know me must be thinking; what is it that would lead a hardened individual, molded and forged in the fires encountered while driving a couple Toyotas around the world to be driven to tears. Well, simply put, it is the simple gestures and words of encouragement from people we meet along our journey who move me in such a way that my only natural response is to cry a bit… although I try not to let them see it.
Most recently, we were invited to a traditional Mongolian wedding out in the countryside. We jumped at the opportunity to be a part of this truly unique cultural experience and without hesitation, hopped in the Thundra along with eight other Mongolians and a British ex-pat (that’s right, we had 11 people in and on the Tundra) and headed west. Obviously, the main focus of the wedding and the ensuing weeklong celebration was the wedding itself, but we also became the subject of attention after arriving in our strange machine.
We have been starting to get local’s to write words of encouragement on the roof rack of the Thundra and it did not take long to find someone who could write in the traditional Mongolian script, as opposed to the contemporary Russian-style Cyrillic alphabet, to add to the collection. In fact, after seeing the Chinese writing on the rack, the Mongolians were more than happy to add their own words directly above the Chinese characters. There is a degree of tension between Mongolians and the Chinese and the Mongolians are always looking for a way to one-up the Chinese even if it is simply writing their phrase above one from their neighbors to the southeast. Even though the blank space above the Chinese characters was limited, the Mongolians would not have it any other way.
Anyway, the writing was cool, but it did not make me cry. At the wedding itself, there were some very well respected herders and local political bosses in attendance and the elders soon took a keen interest in what we were doing and made a point to wish us well with each round of Vodka that came our way. There was one particular gesture of good will though that sticks out above all others. On the night of the wedding, the father of the groom seemed to be especially proud that the presence of scruffy TWBR foreigners was making his son’s wedding an even more memorable occasion. As you know, we have been soliciting donations to help us out on our quest around the world and many of you have helped us out and for that we are truly thankful. However, that night we received the most significant and meaningful donation to date.
After many hours of eating, drinking and celebrating, the father of the groom approached us and offered us a bowl of fermented mare’s milk. Ayrag is a very special drink in Mongolia and is offered as a sign of welcome and in particular flows in great volumes at special events and celebrations. Through an interpreter, the father wished us good luck on our journey and upon receipt of the bowl of ayrag, passed us 2,000 Togrog to help ensure that the expedition would be a success. 2,000 Togrog amounts to only about $2 but this is a large sum of money in Mongolia. In a country where the average monthly income is about $100 in Ulaanbaatar and even less in the countryside, this represented a significant personal contribution and an even greater gesture of encouragement and support.
Maybe it was the combination of ayrag, vodka and homemade alcohol in my system that made me cry when this man passed me the worn and tattered bills. Maybe it was a sign of respect from one nomad to another… from the days of Chinggis Khan, Mongolians have been known for leading a nomadic lifestyle and this is a tradition that is still carried on today by the herders who carefully watch over their horses, sheep and goats. Ultimately, I think it was the fact that this complete stranger who welcomed me into his home and family and shared food and drink with me was willing to give me a gift on this very special occasion.Whatever the reason for his donation was, it was obvious that it was genuine and proved that I still have some soft spots left beneath my bearded exterior. Oh yeah… I have a beard now too for the first time in my life. I think it may be my attempt at portraying a tougher than usual appearance going into Siberia or it is possibly a sign of an impending mid-life crisis having recently turned 30.
