TWBR Guides and Insights: Â slightly random, somewhat subjective but always helpful.
BUENOS AIRES
EATS
When it comes to eating out in Buenos Aires, it might feel like you’re dealing with the same approaches to consuming meat and cheese…Would you like them separated into little pockets that are then deep fried or combined on a pizza? How about no bread at all, just a steak maybe, topped with sliced ham and 2 fried eggs? There’s also the option of having the meat tenderized layered in bread crumbs and then deep fried…missing the cheese?…order anything you like ‘Napolitana’ to add some sauce and mozzarella…just think of it as a pizza but with a fried steak instead of the crust. All of the varieties are no doubt delicious but it is possible to get sick of the standard porteño diet of empanadas, pizza and milanesas. And no, I don’t have any idea why Argentines aren’t massively overweight because if that is not enough, most people won’t shy away from lunch and dinnertime deserts either. There’s good news, though, because for every 800 typical corner restaurants, there are definitely some solid, well priced gems scattered about the city.
One of my all time fav’s is Los Sabios. Depending on how much time you have left in Buenos Aires when you first visit Los Sabios, you’ll be back. Belie’dat! It’s an all-you-can-eat, all vegetarian Chinese buffet and the rotating spread is simply stunning. Did I mention it’s all you can eat for only 18 pesos? Los Sabios is also a good visit as it is will get you out of whichever barrio you’re staying in (and most likely haven’t left, don’t worry, it’s quite common). While Los Sabios is all you can eat, there are some other health food and vegetarian options out there. If you’re staying downtown, or just in the mood for a massive burrito, check out California Burrito Company. You can pick your own ingredients (I suggest all of them) and then your combo meal for under 8 USD. While you’re in the neighborhood, check out one of Pura Vida‘s locations for a made to order smoothie and fresh veggie and quinoa sandwich. Out in the heart of Palermo, don’t miss La Esquina de las Flores, which has a restaurant and small holistic grocer. An absolute favorite cafe is El Federal at the corner of Carlo Calvo and Peru in San Telmo, and you’ll be back there too.  When going after a brunch that is sophisticated and delicious, Olsen in Palermo is where you’ll want to get a table.
GOING OUT
Finding a place to go out in Buenos Aires is about the easiest thing you can do, finding a place that could easily be a place you frequent in your hometown but with better looking porteños is a little harder. Adjusting to the porteño nighttime schedule can also be quite difficult. Eating dinner around nine and hitting bars or clubs around 11 will put you about 2-3 hours ahead of schedule. That’s bad. It will take some time getting used to, but dinner, even during the week, is generally between 11pm and 12am and bars start to fill up around 2…so go ahead and plan on not getting to bed until at least 5am whether you like it or not. You’re welcome to do what you want, but most bars don’t open until after 10 and it’s a little awkward to be the first ones anywhere. A great exception to the rule is expat (of course) run Sugar Bar in Palermo, hosting happy hour from 9-12am for 5 peso pints of Quilmes. They are open from lunch and is likely the only place in Buenos Aires to serve up a heaping plate of nachos. A little out of the way, is Le Cigale downtown, but worth the trip on a Thursday night for live rock and roll or Tuesday for 3 peso Pastis. If rock and roll is what you’re really missing then check out the schedule at Salón Pueyrredon to see what’s playing any night of the week. It’s a huge space with a stage on each of the two upper floors. Most bands from Buenos Aires have Myspace pages for you to sample what you might be getting yourself into ahead of time.  Just be sure you don’t forget your leather jacket and/or converse…or do, and see what happens…just kidding, there is honestly far less pretentiousness, if any, to be encountered among any scene here. Quite refreshing. Niceto Club is the best dance club by far. Resident Thursday night DJ crew Zizek have even captured international attention sighting their talent for spinning cumbia, dancehall, reggaetón and emerging hip hop-not to mention stuff you’ve never heard of. Be sure to check out the party Club 69 downstairs on the same night (but check the website just in case, to make sure you’re into that kind of thing!) If at this point you have made it past 4am (hey, don’t beat yourself up about it…everyone else is doing it) then the next (ill)logical step is a little haunt called Kim y Novak.
For daily listings of nightly happenings What’s Up Buenos Aires generally has the right idea.
Also, some ideas for how to spend your days besides just taking it all in from the city’s sidewalks:
Check out Mite Galeria for monthly art openings or go anytime mid week to browse what’s on the walls and shelves in Nicolas Barraza’s impressive studio/gallery space.
Renting bikes through La Bicicleta Naranja for 8 peso/hour is one of the most fun ways to get around but you might want to give your first go on a Saturday and Sunday when street traffic is substantially less–or if you’d rather you can book a laid back 3 hour bike tour for 80 pesos.
When you begin to get sick of the city itself, it’s easy to feel miles away on the shore of the Rio de la Plata in the 350 hectares of greenspace belonging to the Ecological Reserve.
WHERE TO STAY
There is absolutely no shortage of hostels in Buenos Aires but try to make sure to book at least your first night in advace. And unless you’re desperate, stay away from any hostels located downtown (microcentro) as you’re sure to regret it once you’re aware of what the other neighborhoods have to offer. Some favorites:
Palermo House is your all around best bet in terms of the bang you get for your buck. Great location, with rooftop area for weekly asados!
Hostel Carlos Gardel is quiet and cozy, just like San Telmo but somehow both the neighborhood and hostel know when to party at just the right times.
Hostel Suites Obelisco is an HI certified hostel meaning that if cleanliness is your #1 priority, then pick this place. It’s also one of the biggest in town and the well organized staff can help any planning both nightly and nationally.
Depending on your budget, give one of the many boutique hotels in Palermo a try. Some are more typical hotels just with minimalist design but some are really somthing special.Â
Kala Petit Hotel in Palermo Viejo is more of a bed and breakfast but the rooms cozy and bright you’ll definitley get the feel you’re part of the family as they prepare you an asado out by the pool.
And if there happens to be another confirmation or other big event, you’ll be invited to that too! Another really popular option is Home that has it’s own 5 star spa.
Patagonia
Peninsula Valdes
Take the time to go to Peninsula Valdes, it is a truly amazing place. Â We stayed at the hotel at Punta Delgada, where the staff will guide you through the night sky with a laser pointer after dinner, their private beaches for viewing the sealife are unlike any other, and the working lighthouse really gives you an incredible feel of going back in time with style!
Click on any photos for a closer look. Â Or click here if you would like to see the entire gallery.
El Calafate
In El Calafate, instead of just doing the typical trek to the glacier, stay at EcoCamp for an experience unlike any other. Here at the ecocamp you can watch the sunset on the glacier from a distance while staying in the middle of an enchanting forest eating great food and going on hikes.
Click on any photos for a closer look. Â Or click here if you would like to see the entire gallery.
Tierra del Fuego
If you’ve made it all the way to Tierra del Fuego, spoil your self at either Kaiken Hosteria for fly fishing in the lake or enjoy the view from Cumbres del Martial 8 miles above the town of Ushuaia. Â The amazing light that is cast on this most southern city in the world is something not to be missed. Â It has great nightlife to go with all of the incredible hikes and activies you can do during the day. Â One of the best options for a truly unique experience is to go diving in the four degree waters of the bay and see the crazy marine life that lives in the cold including giant king crabs. Â Ushuaia Divers are highly qualified and will take care of you for this gear intensive adventure.
Click on any photos for a closer look. Â Or click here if you would like to see the entire gallery.
Mendoza and the Wine Region
Most travelers to Argentina these days consider a stop through Mendoza “a must”. Â There are plenty of hostels and hotels catering to the recent boom but we selected Hotel Agua Miel located in the Maipu district. Â It is straight from the pages of Dwell and the family behind it will make you feel like their own.
If you are looking to plan a wine tour, your absolute best bet is to go with Aventura & Wine for their 100% personalized tour services and an experience for the most unbelievable wine and food pairings you can ever imagine!
RANDOM INSIGHTS
DEALING WITH THE PESO:
When visiting Buenos Aires you should also be aware that 100 peso bills are the most common to receive out of an ATM, however you will find that no one will have the change to be able to break that bill. Try paying for a 10 peso cab ride with 100 without getting some serious attitude from the driver-if he even has change at at all. Also, it appears that the coins are more valuable than their paper money.  So you can consider yourself a superstar for ever having correct change! Otherwise, you’re most likely to get some attitude yet again. For example, you might think you have lucked out when you have a 20 peso bill in order to buy something that costs 11. Well, not quite, because you will get asked for that one peso coin so that they can give you a 10 back instead of having to dole out their coins and for some reason “No, no tengo nada mas. Lo siento.†doesn’t really cut it. But you’ll get used to it and as your confidence grows (after about week 4 or so) you can give your cab driver or the lady at the market a hard time right back. You’ll see…! An easy way around this is to pull out an odd amount from the ATM, say instead of withdrawling and even 500.00 try 490.00 so you can at least get some fifty and twenty notes to get ya going.
As with anywhere make sure you have smaller notes and an ample cash supply before heading away from bigger towns. For example, there are no ATM machines in El Chalten (but they will accept most credit cards) and the nearest banks are over 200 kms away in El Calafate.
If you just want a glass of water, simply ask for just that “un vaso de aqua, por favor” because “aqua sin/con gas” will be sure to lead to paying for a whole bottle. If it’s the whole bottle you’re after then you will be asked how many glasses as most people will share one bottle at a time between a table, ordering them subsequently if desired…just like wine!
Only ride the Subte at rush hour if it is absolutely necessary because if that sucker breaks down in between stops while you’re sandwiched in there, feet not even touching the ground, mind over matter won’t help you through it.
The bus can get just as crowded but one thing to know here is to tell the driver how much you’re paying for before putting any money in the machine. Only rides less than about 8 blocks are .90 centavos so odds are you simply say “un peso” before depositing it in the machine…just follow the crowd on this one.
Brief language differences:
“Spanish” is referred to as “Castellano” where “Español” is used as an adjective describing something or someone from Spain, or for foreigners not in the know on this one. The pronounciation of “castellano” is another example of a linguistical feature of the region, known as yeÃsmo, where ‘ll’ (and ‘y’s) are spoken with a soft “sh” sound. So, ordering your chicken to go is “po-sho para shevar”. Get it? If you don’t know, you will. Grammatically speaking, this specific dialect also utilizes saying ‘vos’ as the second person singular pronoun instead of ‘tú’. So you might find yourself receiving odd looks for replying with “muy bien gracias ¿Y tú ?†when a locals asks “¿Cómo estás?â€
“¿Qué tal?” is something that you will hear quite frequently. It is pretty informal and can translate to “how are you?” or even a form of “what’s up”.
Dates and seasons to consider:
The summer months of December through January can be unbearably hot, especially in the almost already stifling Buenos Aires. The winters in Buenos Aires are quite mild, but can easily approach or dip below 0C at night but there are far fewer tourists, which is nice. The two holiday months where most of the country can be on vacation leaving places even like Buenos Aires rather quiet are January and July. Therefore the beaches will be more crowded in January while the ski resorts are packed in July.
For viewing wildlife on Peninsula Valdes, March is the only month that will guaruantee a sighting of a killer whale sliding on the beach nabbing at seals.
We also wouldn’t want you to miss El Chalten’s birthday party on the second weekend of October.
