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I know that we have posted a few blogs about our current financial situation recently and some of you are probably getting sick of it. The bottom line is we are struggling, but that is not going to deter us from finishing what we set out to do and that is to drive around the world, regardless of the reason. Unfortunately for us, we decided to drive around the world in an era of rising fuel prices and a declining US dollar. In fact, you might call it the perfect storm. However, if rebels in the Congo can not hinder our progress, you can bet that this little economic weather front will not stop us either, even if it feels like a category 5 hurricane right now.

Courtesy of Newsbusters.org

To put everything in perspective, since I have been here in South Africa, one of the last apparent safe havens for the US dollar, the value of the dollar has declined about 8 percent to the South African Rand. At the same time, local fuel prices, which are controlled by the South African government and are set at a fixed price on a monthly basis, have increased about 6 percent. It has pretty much been the same in most of the countries we have traveled in. When we were in the Congo, we watched the value of the dollar drop nearly 20 percent compared to the Central African Franc and the fuel prices in Europe have risen enough to lead to massive transportation strikes in several different countries. Unfortunately, there is not much we could have done to either predict how much fuel prices would increase over the course of the expedition, or predict how bad the US dollar would get pummeled on the foreign exchange markets. Overall, the combination of rising fuel prices and the declining value of the dollar has increased our overall expedition costs by approximately 20 percent. On a trip of this scale and proportion, that 20 percent amounts to a significant amount of money. So, if you are contemplating a jaunt around the world, Alan Greenspan’s advice might be just as important as what type of vehicle you choose.

Courtesy of Planebuzz

This is probably a question that a lot of foreigners ask themselves when they think about traveling to South Africa. There is no shortage of media covering the recent xenophobia attacks, the high murder rates and the countless muggings that take places across South Africa every day. But is this any different that any other developed nation? Is it any different than any large metropolitan area in the United States?

I like to think that I have learned a lot during the 17 months I have been on the road. I have seen a lot, I have experienced a lot, I have read a lot, I have had many discussions with local people, and ultimately, I have come to the conclusion that the negative hype about a place by and large is just that, hype. In the case of South Africa, I had heard a lot about the crime problems here before I arrived and I tried my best not to let it develop into a negative stereotype about the country and for the most part, it has not. I kept on telling myself that the crime in South Africa can not possibly be as bad here as people make it out to be. Sure, there are plenty of places in Johannesburg and Cape Town that I would not want to walk in by myself or venture to after dark, but the same can be said for New York, Los Angeles or any other big city in the world for that matter.

In talking about crime and the concern people have for it in South Africa, I think I am experiencing the issue from a unique perspective: that of a traveler and a foreigner. Compared to a lot of other places I have been, I think people here in South Africa tend to talk about crime a lot more than people in other countries or cities with even higher crime rates. I have never been warned so many times about where I choose to go, who I chose to go with and what I chose to bring when I go out. At times, it almost seems like the people I go out with at night are expecting to get mugged. Maybe it is partly because the eyes of the world are looking on South Africa as they prepare for the 2010 World Cup. The last thing locals want is to see something happen to a foreign tourist, an incident that could bring into question beyond their actual structural preparedness, the ability of South Africa to host a successful international event.

Personally, I have felt pretty safe the entire time I have been here in South Africa regardless of how many private residences I pass with electric fences, or how long I have had to park the trucks in secured, underground parking because they are “prime targets” for criminals on the prowl. Maybe I have been pretty lucky and maybe it is just a matter of time before the law of averages catches up to me, but I like to think the people here are just being overly cautious when it comes to crime. But what is the line between overly cautious and paranoid? Believe it or not, they sell anti carjacking devices for your vehicles here in South Africa that actually shoot flames out at would be assailants and there are plenty of advertisements in the daily papers for how to electrify the perimeter of your property. That all sounds pretty bad ass, but it also sounds a little over the top.

Markings at the crime scene of a fatal shooting near my hostel

I guess some people might say that I am being a little careless with regard to the crime problems in South Africa. The bottom line is that there is crime here and it can happen right in front of you. A few days ago, South African Police Services officer Lukas Nell was gunned down literally 50 meters from the hostel where I am staying in Cape Town. It was close enough for us to hear the exchange of gunfire. Officer Nell was searching a suspicious individual who later pulled out a gun and fatally wounded him before fleeing on foot. It was a bit of a shock to everyone in the area because Tamboerskloof is known to be a pretty safe part of Cape Town. It was a bit of a shock to me as well because I have walked past that spot at night several times coming back from dinner, the internet cafe, or the bars just up the road. It is always a tragedy when someone who is serving the public and fighting crime dies in the line of duty and obviously it has been a main subject of conversation around here ever since it happened. Hopefully, officer Nell’s assailant will be apprehended and justice will be served. I also hope that this incident will not serve as a deterrent to people in a popular tourist area in a world class tourist destination, because regardless of what happened the other night, I still feel safe here.

Police, family and community gather at the scene of SA Police officer Lukas Nell’s death

It is hard to make light of the crime in South Africa when this is going on in front of you

However, Tuesday’s tragedy should not deter tourists from one of the best places in the world

One of the main messages I think that we want to convey during and after the course of this expedition is that anyone can do what we are doing. Sure, we are all exceptionally intelligent, sociable and good looking here at TWBR, but honestly, all it takes is an idea or a dream and the conviction to follow through with it and you too can find yourself halfway around the world on a trip many people thought would never even happen. A lot of people that we meet say that we are doing this at the right time in our lives. We are young, we do not have many family commitments, (i.e. no children or spouses) and we can always go back to our jobs later on if we so choose. I guess this is a pretty good time to do something like this, but then again, I think you can always find time to chase your dreams, no matter what age you are.

Case in point, while we were stuck in the Congo trying to sort out our Angola visa problems, we met Stewart and Annaliese. Stewart and Annaliese hail from Cape Town, South Africa and are in the midst of driving their Land Rover around Africa. On the surface, that may not sound that interesting because there are a lot of people driving a lot of Land Rovers around here in Africa. What makes Stewart and Annaliese a bit of an exception is that they both left well paying professional jobs in Cape Town, sold their home and basically everything they own and put it all into a trip they had been contemplating for quite a while. They did have to wait for their son to go off to university, but it just goes to show you that you can always find the time in your life to do something like this. Just like us, Stewart and Annaliese’s friends thought they were totally out of their minds for giving up all of the things they had worked for in life, but as they point out and as we have experienced, a lot of the people who thought we were crazy are the ones checking out our respective websites and wishing they were in the car with us. It was nice bumping into the couple because we all shared an understanding of the rigors of overlanding but more importantly, what it feels like to take a big, potentially risky, yet rewarding step out of our comfort zones. You can follow Stewart and Annaliese’s adventures on their website: Roots in Africa.

I don’t know what time it is. I don’t know what day it is. I don’t know what month it is. Luckily someone reminded me that it was Mother’s Day so fortunately, I did not let that slip by without letting my Mom know that I am still alive… where, I don’t really know.

TWBR crew in from of La Pyramide, Pointe Noire, Congo

It has been over three weeks now since we arrived in Pointe Noire, and it seems like we are no closer to getting our Angolan visas than when we first applied for them. “Come back tomorrow,” “Come back Wednesday…” I do not think they understand that I no longer want to come back. If I had my way, I would forget Angola even existed. Unfortunately, reality interferes with my fantasies of jumping off bridges with bungee cords and going to rugby matches in South Africa, Angola clearly out of sight in the rearview mirror of the Tundra. Reality forces me to acknowledge Angola’s existence and come to terms with the fact that we have no choice but to drive through it.

We tried to see if it was feasible to skip Angola, we really did. We investigated shipping the trucks, a drastic step considering how painful the shipping process has been in the past for us, but we have reached the point where we are willing to endure that pain to progress the expedition. In true keeping with our past experiences, the shipping companies informed us that for hefty fees they will be more than happy to transport our trucks around Angola in the amazingly quick time frame of 50 days. No one was ready subject themselves to that type of pain just yet.

Thinking of ways around Angola

We investigated driving back around to Brazzaville, through the “pool area” where rebel groups known as “Ninjas” lurk in the jungle waiting for vehicles to pass, collecting valuables from motorists with the aid of rusting, yet still fully functioning Kalashnikov assault riffles. The funny thing is, in considering this option, the Ninjas are not our biggest concern. We have instead been focusing on the reports of overlanders being turned away at the D.R.C. border for not having onward Angola visas, (even though they are reportedly issued at the border town of Matadi) Having already paid large sums of money to take the ferry across the Congo River to Kinshasa, with the end result of being denied entry, coupled with an expired Congolese visa and a mounting pile of “paperwork problems,” aka financial problems, this option could backfire and leave us in a much worse position than the one we are in now. We do have some Dutch friends whom we met in Nigeria that are in the process of making the Brazzaville-Kinshasa-Matadi run this week and based on what we hear back from them, will decide if we will follow suit.

Little did we know, another problem was looming on the horizon

However, even if we wanted to pack up shop and make a run for it, there is no fuel in Pointe Noire and both trucks are nearly on empty. That’s right, they ran out of petrol a few days ago, gasoil (diesel) is expected to run dry in the near future and according to our friends at the Toyota dealership, the supplies will not be replenished for another few weeks. The situation is so bad, that they do not have any more Jet-A aviation fuel at the Pointe Noire airport, so all airport operations have been temporarily suspended as well. Apparently, the supplier has had some refining issues that have resulted in production shortages. All this is very ironic considering how many times we have watched the sun set over the Atlantic at La Pyramide over the last three weeks and subsequently watched as the flaming, burn-off of gas from oil rigs a few miles offshore slowly lit up the darkening sky. Signs of petroleum production are everywhere here in Pointe Noire. In fact, on some days you can even smell it, yet for some reason, there is no fuel.

Oil is coming out of the ground here in PN, but it goes somewhere else

To top this all off, I have somehow managed to contract malaria again, only days after starting to feel better from the last bout and Shoppman finally lost his odds battle with the local mosquitoes as well. Twilight Zone I tell you, Twilight Zone.

Sitting here in Pointe Noire, Congo, I am starting to go a little crazy. It has been nearly two weeks since we arrived and applied for our Angola visas and we are still waiting. I have been trying to pass the time by reading and reflecting upon the Africa segment of our journey and given all that has transpired here in Africa, I have really only been able to focus on one central theme: corruption. I have become obsessed with corruption. I find myself constantly trying to find out more about the varying levels of corruption in the different countries we have passed through and trying to make sense of our daily encounters with corruption here in Pointe Noire. Each of my conversations with members of the ex-pat community here in the Congo always wind their way back to corruption, and when we are able to get online in between the random yet still somehow consistent power outages here in town, I am looking for more information as to the prevalence of corruption and what if anything can be done to put and end to it… especially here in Africa. I am obsessed to the point at which I can say that in 2007, the Republic of the Congo ranked in the top 10 percent of countries in the world in terms of corruption. (If you want to see where everyone else falls on the Perceived Corruption Index, check out Transparency International’s Annual Report)

“I don’t think you used your turn signal, give me 100,000 CFA!”

Photo courtesy Schalk van Zuydam, Associated Press

Personally, I believe the problem of corruption in Africa is immense. It ranges from our daily encounters with overzealous and underpaid police officers trying to extort money from us for ludicrous and falsified infractions to the top levels of government… politicians who have padded their own personal offshore bank accounts at the expense of the development of their country and the progress of their citizens. The numbers are staggering. According to a 2006 World Bank report, it estimates that half of all funds donated to health efforts in sub-Saharan Africa… billions of dollars… never reach the clinics or hospitals, instead leaking out in the form of payments to ghost employees and payments for padded customs, transportation and warehousing prices. It seems like you can not build a single road, bridge or building without some public official benefiting. During his 10 year rule in Zambia, president Frederick Chiluba stashed away nearly $46 million of public money in his offshore bank account but that pails in comparison to the estimated $5 billion Charles Taylor had in offshore accounts while he ran Liberia into the ground, or the estimated billions that Zimbabwe president Robert Mugabe has reportedly stashed away in Switzerland while his country teeters on the verge of total economic collapse.

Africa has a lot of problems. Humanitarian problems, economic problems, social problems. The list goes on and on. I am by no means an expert on Africa and I have hardly been here long enough to formulate any reasonable opinions on the cause for all of the misery here on the continent and I am certainly in no place at this stage to recommend any solutions. But I am observant and I do have a background in politics and public policy and that, coupled with my recent obsession with everyone and everything corrupt, has led me to become more and more convinced that all of Africa’s problems stem from two things: a systematic lack of transparency in government operations and a lack of the rule of law. Without transparency and respect for the rule of law, Africa and it citizens will continue to suffer. Sure, most of the problem can be blamed on the endless list of African dictators who have used government institutions for personal gain, but I think the people too can be blamed for not reining in the excess of these plundering politicians. “People power” can be an effective and successful tool against government largess, but it seems to be stagnant and ineffective here in Africa. It is almost like people do not care that their leaders are driving their country into the ground and taking them with it.

The African continent represents one of the poorest regions in the world, yet in terms of natural energy and resource wealth, it is one of the richest. Oil and gas has the potential to provide much needed revenues and has allowed countries throughout the world to address the problems that they face, yet in in Africa, the revenues from energy production represent a curse: corruption runs rampant, waste is chronic and the gap that has developed between the extremely rich and the desperately poor is essentially insurmountable. It is painful to see how much potential Africa has for development yet in reality, how that potential has been squandered, wasted and tucked away into the pockets of the connected elite.

So what can be done? Is Africa destined to become one of history’s monumental failures? Are the people of Africa doomed to be forever victimized by tyrannical despots destined to profit at the expense of their citizens? It is without a doubt a monumental problem requiring a multitude of complex solutions and one that will take years, if not generations to correct, but I guess I can take some comfort in knowing that people are trying to right the ship. The United States has recently developed the Millennium Challenge Account (MCA) which provides funding to developing countries on the condition that they meet strict criteria for good governance; the responsible management of government affairs, services and finances, and other lending organizations such as the World Bank are implementing similar criteria for the disbursement of their loans. Unfortunately, many developing countries in Africa with newly discovered mineral and oil reserves such as Angola and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) are turning to other investors, namely China, who delivers billions in development funding in return for access to natural resources but without conditions of good governance, human rights, or economic reform. To the Chinese, “business is business.”

So providing development funding on the condition that the money is used appropriately alone will not work. Pressure has to come from elsewhere, namely from the citizens of these countries and countries throughout the world demanding greater transparency in the public sector and demanding that they become party to the billions of dollars being extracted from onshore and offshore reserves. Given what I have seen here in Africa, if I had to deal with the same problems day in and day out that people do here, I would probably be right along side people in picking up guns and fighting, but violence is not the answer and will only continue to push these countries closer to the point of no return. Something needs to be done to force leaders of countries in Africa to be accountable for their actions and to be accountable to their constituents. One thing is certain, there needs to be a fundamental change in attitude not just in people and nations wishing to help, but in people here in Africa, because the situation seems to only be getting worse… (case in point; Zimbabwe, Sudan, and Somalia) and programs like the MCA are only Band-Aid approaches to stemming the blood flow from a hemorrhaging wound.