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Archive for the 'Uzbekistan' Category

New Photos - Moynaq

Saturday, February 2nd, 2008

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Before we made it across the Qizilqum Desert and into Kazakhstan to catch the ferry across the Caspian Sea, we stopped by another great body of water… the Aral Sea. Unfortunately, the once thriving fishing village of Moynaq where we camped for the night is now nowhere near the shores of the Aral Sea. The desertification of the Aral Sea represents probably the largest man-made ecological disaster of our time and although the affects are far reaching, Moynaq is a very visible representation of just how much the receding waters have affected the lively hood of thousands of people.

After spending the night in the trucks at the border, we awoke to find food vendors ready to serve those of us who had been straAfter Moynaq, we headed across the desert and back into Kazakhstan to catch a ferry that hopefully was still floating in waterNice and clean but not for longApparently, they still use steam engines out hereWe were surprised to find that we were not the only ones headed to Kazakhstan via the middle of nowhereThe town on the western border between Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan definitely did not have a McDonald’sHead west and you will find what you seek and in our case hopefully it is the Kazakh borderThe old Uzbekistan customs houseUzbek recreational vehicle Moynaq was once a thriving fishing village on the Aral SeaToday, not much remains of the Areal Sea near MoynaqThere is not much left for the people of Moynaq to do but salvage scrap metal from what remains of their fleetMost of the working parts have been salvaged from the boats and soon, so will the restThe boats are a visible reminder of the Aral Sea tragedy, but its effects go far beyond the fishing fleetThere is not much left for the people of Moynaq to do but salvage scrap metal from what remains of their fleetKarie exploring one of the many stranded fishing vessels at MoynaqThis boat has been bleached by the sun and rusted to the point of almost perfectly blending in with its desert tomb I guess it is more difficult than we can image to move an entire fishing villageIt makes you wonder why these boats were just left here and not moved as the water recededAn old anchorage lies rusting in the desert sandFinally, some local kids showed us where the ships wereWalking by the skeletal remains of the Moynaq fleet was surreal The efforts of the villagers to dig a canal to the receding shoreline is still visibleMoynaq is home to a ghost fleet of fishing boats but is was harder to find than we had thoughtThe once proud fishing fleet now sits rusting in the desert sandsThe village still remains, but without fishing, life is pretty difficult and the inhabitants suffer from a higher number of healThe present day shoreline of the Aral Sea lies more than 150 kilometers north of MoynaqBouey wonders what life must have been like in Moynaq while Karie tries to figure out how to use binocularsThe desertification of the Aral Sea has hit Moynaq especially hardThe efforts of the villagers to dig a canal to the receding shoreline is still visibleMost of the working parts have been salvaged from the boats and soon, so will the rest

New Photos - Khiva

Friday, February 1st, 2008

Khiva is another ancient Silk road town in Uzbekistan and lies just a few kilometers north of Turkmenistan. Khiva is one of the western-most towns in Uzbekistan and beyond the historic walls of this mythical place lies the barren and inhospitable Qizilqum Desert. Khiva would be our last stop before heading out into the desert and the uncertainty of the remote western border crossing back into Kazakhstan.

Khiva sits just across the border from TurkmenistanSwinger reflects on his time in KhivaThe streets of Khiva were totally empty when we arrivedWandering the streets of Khiva was like exploring a maze with new surprises around every cornerNot long after sunrise, the streets and markets begin to come to life in KhivaAlthough smaller than Bukhara, Khiva has just as much charm and intrigue Khiva had a slightly different style of architecture than Samarkand and BukharaNothing out of the ordinary I guess, we are in the middle of the desert on the Silk RoadThe trademark sky blue tiles are still fully utilized in KhivaThis guy saw that Karie was not wearing a headscarf and ran away in fearYou can get lost wandering around the streets and alleys of KhivaAncient market stalls or prison cells? Swinger was not amused when we tried to trade him for some textiles Life seems to move at a much more acceptable pace in KhivaTash tries on a cashmere scarf at one of the many market stalls in Khiva Looks like a match, now its time to bargainFish from the nearby river for sale at the market in KhivaEven small market stalls pop up in the most random of placesThe local CD shop, complete with listening stationThe simplest of things can capture your attention for long periods of time in KhivaTrying to figure out if we can drive through the front gate of the city of KhivaLife seems to move at a much more acceptable pace in Khiva

New Photos - Bukhara

Thursday, January 31st, 2008

After a few days in Samarkand, we headed west to Bukhara, another spectacular Uzbek city. Many of us actually found Bukhara to be more amazing than Samarkand and it truly felt like taking a step back in time to bustling trading center on the Silk Road. Just when you think you have seen the most fascinating mosque or minaret you have ever seen, something even more awe inspiring awaits around the next corner in Bukhara. Uzbek hospitality continued to flourish in Bukhara and the food was great. Enjoy these photos, but unfortunately, they come far from doing Bukhara any justice.

Why does everything in Central Asia look like it is on the set of Star WarsBouey looks like a sucker so this girl tried to hit him up for moneyThe girl was definitely photogenicThe walls of the Ark in Bukhara resemble those of Jaba the Hut’s palaceAnother girl trying to hit Bouey up for money?Some local women cleaning up leaves outside the cracking walls of the ArkThe old and the older section of the Ark wallsRugs are a popular commodity in the markets in UzbekistanMany of the older mosques in this region of Central Asia are capped with sky blue, tiled domesThe Kalyan minaret is the centerpiece of the historic structures in BukharaThe ancient Mir-I Arab madrasah still functions as a school todaySteve wondering if he has what it takes to give up his western lifestyle and join the madrasahThe building itself is old but the door looks to have been around since the early days of the Silk RoadCriminals and other undesirables were executed by being thrown from the towerKazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan lost most of their culture thanks to the Soviets, but Uzbekistan managed to hold on to many of its traBukhara is a surreal place, almost like a movie setArches, doorways and windows lead everywhere and nowhereWe were in Bukhara in the off-season so it was mainly just TWBR and the localsEven the locals stop to admire the beauty of the mosque and study the ancient scriptThe delicate tile work is amazingThe halls of the madrasah were empty, but the sounds of prayer filled the airEach new doorway seemed to lead to courtyards that were more spectacular than the nextBouey trying to blend in at the Kalyan mosqueUzbeki-Steve at the Kalyan mosqueThe detail is complete, down to the carvings and inscriptions on the door itselfIt makes you wonder who has walked through these doors over the course of historyBusy markets are crowded under a complex assortment of domed passagewaysLocal women selling their textiles in front of Kalyan mosqueThe central pool in Bukhara has been a meeting place on the Silk Road for centuriesMany of the basins remain but the Soviets drained the water for fear of disease outbreaksAnother TWBR mascotThe central Bukhara complex at sunsetThe end of another day in Bukhara, UzbekistanKarie talking to an Austrian couple who has been stalking us since BishkekIt seems as if Caki’s cat Salter has followed us to Bukhara from DenverShenanigans in the desertWe were fortunate enough to enjoy such an amazing place while void of any crowds

Uzbekistan - The Breakfast

Wednesday, January 23rd, 2008

When you drive your own vehicle, you get the opportunity to have some pretty unique experiences. One of those experiences happened just outside of Samarkand, UZ. We had pushed through from Tashkent but arrived near Samarkand pretty late in the evening so decided to spend the night in the trucks near an open field. We awoke early in the morning to find a curious farmer tapping on the window. One farmer quickly multiplied into a small crowd of curious locals interested in knowing what four westerners and their strange trucks were doing near their field. It took a while, but we were able to communicate what we were attempting to do and soon found ourselves invited to breakfast in the nearby village. It was quite an occasion and we were all humbled by the extreme generosity and hospitality we were shown by complete strangers. “The Breakfast” will, without a doubt, be one of the highlights of the expedition.

After a group photo, the locals invited us to their house for breakfastWe awoke one morning after sleeping in the trucks to some curious local farmers and herdersUzbeks in the countryside wear very traditional clothingTash trying to explain why we were sleeping in our truck near their fieldBreakfast started out with some breadOne loaf of homemade bread turned into fourWe were taken back to a very traditional Uzbek houseUzbek camouflage This is the best tea you will ever haveSomewhat traditional toiletSomewhat traditional roofing materialsTraditional construction style in the Uzbek countrysideThe family kept an interesting mix of goats and sheep in the back yardOnce word got out that foreigners were in the village, neighbors from all around started to show upEven the little ones where curious about the breakfast guestsBefore we knew it, we had a feast in front of usThe guys showed us the back yard and the father showed us his truckAfter breakfast, the women showed Karie and Tash where the kitchen wasIt seemed like everyone wanted to drive the trucksAfter breakfast, we showed everyone the trucks

Uzbekistan - Tashkent/Samarkand Photos

Monday, January 21st, 2008

We had been warned a couple of times about the paranoid nature of the government in Uzbekistan and the restrictions placed on most people’s civil liberties. However, politics and powerful dictatorships aside, we immediately fell in love with Uzbekistan and its people. Everyone was extremely friendly and helpful. In Tashkent we actually found a Toyota dealership and they even had break pads for our Sequoia. This is pretty amazing considering they only see one or two Sequoias a year according to the boys at the shop. Uzbekistan is also home to some amazing architecture and the mosques and madrasahs in Samarkand we spectacular to say the least.

Approaching the Uzbek border at Osh before the TWBR fireworks incidentBouey can’t decide if he will fit in or stick out in UzbekistanEven when we drive Toyotas into a Toyota shop we seem to draw a crowd At Toyota in Tashkent, they actually had break pads for the Sequoia in stock which we were in desperate need ofThe gang at Toyota in Tashkent, UzbekistanThe mechanics were awesome and they hooked us up with Uzbekistan stickers for the trucksYou can pretty much find a Toyota garage anywhereBouey explaining the route and getting the low down on the road to SamarkandWe also found out that someone in Osh made off with a Tundra I-Force V8 souvenirEveryone in Uzbekistan was extremely friendly and within minutes of stopping in Samarkand, we made some new friendsThe entrance to Bibi Khanym mosque is a daunting sight in SamarkandThe walls have been rebuilt over time, but much of the original structure of Bibi Khanym remains intactThe tile work on the Bibi Khanym mosque is quite amazing and has withstood the test of timeThe tile work on the Bibi Khanym mosque is quite amazing and has withstood the test of timeSteve stands at the base of Bibi Khanym mosque for a little perspectiveI have no idea what is says, but Arabic script is an art form in and of itselfA close up of the detailed tile work on the mosqueA step inside the mosque is like a step back in timeThe pictures are great but they do not do the Bibi Khanym any justiceMinarets and towers are a staple of Muslim architectureMaintaining the beauty of the mosque is an important jobMinarets and towers are a staple of Muslim architectureInside the courtyard of the Bibi Khanym in SamarkandInside the courtyard of the Bibi Khanym in SamarkandClose up of the tile work and Arabic script on the Bibi KhanymMarkets on the Silk Road still sell items that have been sold for centuriesThe central market in SamarkandThe busy bakery section of the Samarkand central marketI guess the cops thought the trucks looked important so they decided to guard them while we toured around SamarkandCar parking on the right, donkey carts to the leftSamarkand is an ancient city on the Silk Road loaded with history, culture and a lot of mosques

world travel photography
Backdrop that not too many people get to see

Backdrop that not too many people get to see


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